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We spent
12 days in Portugal starting on April 25. We spent all of our time
in the northern 2 thirds of the country. The main attraction in the
southern part is the Algarve, which is mainly sun-drenched coast and
plenty of sun. Since we live on the Mediterranean and have plenty of sun,
this area didn't interest us. Overall, we
enjoyed this trip very much - the people are great, the fish is great, and
the prices are still the lowest in western Europe. |
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Our itinerary is listed below: |
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3 nights |
Lisbon |
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2 nights |
Obidos |
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2 nights |
Viana do
Castello |
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2 nights |
Porto |
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1 night |
Marvao |
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2 night |
Setubal |
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Before I
describe the trip in detail, here are a few observations about traveling
in Portugal: |
| The People: |
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The people are
super. They are always ready and eager to help. In the larger towns,
most of them speak
passable English and a large portion of the rest
understand Spanish, or other languages. In the smallest towns, bring
a dictionary. We found restauranteurs with English-Portuguese
dictionaries at hand in order to try to understand us or explain
something to us. |
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| The food: |
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This is a country
for fish lovers. There's plenty of seafood as well (surprisingly on
the pricy side) , but the fish in Portugal was the freshest and
tastiest of any we have eaten anywhere. They know how to prepare the
fish, and it's always fresh from the sea. Many of the restaurants
feature a grill outside the restaurant right on the sidewalk and of
course you can pick your fish from the display case. Only once did I
ask if the fish was fresh. The chef poked the fish, which jumped a
little, and he said; "Fresh...??? Look at
it! It's still alive!!" We also found out that we enjoyed
the simplest restaurants more than the expensive ones. We ate at a
lot of really great small restaurants and I've tried to remember all
the names. |
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The "cover": |
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Almost without
exception, every restaurant, big and small, cheap or expensive, big
city or village, charges a "cover". Generally this means bread and
butter, sometimes with the addition of olives or some other minor
item. This "cover" will appear on the bill and is mandatory.
Depending on the restaurant the "cover" will cost somewhere between
one and 3 Euros per person. In many restaurants, the waiter
will bring more items like these, perhaps a platter of cheese or
salami, or an octopus salad. If you do not refuse these items before
you start eating, they
will appear on the bill whether you eat them or not. It's perfectly
acceptable to reject these items, although some waiters seemed rather disappointed.
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The driving: |
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I've read
that Portugal has the highest death rate on the highway in western
Europe. I can't dispute that. The drivers on the highway are very
aggressive, and tailgate as a rule. They also signal for a change of
lanes after they've already started. In contrast to their
driving on the highway, in town they are very courteous. They will
stop before a crosswalk even if you are only waiting on the
sidewalk. In the countryside, there are two distinct types of roads
- the "autostrada" - modern toll roads, which are quite expensive,
and secondary roads which are clogged with local traffic. Very few
roads between these two classes. |
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Tourist information: |
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Information for
tourists is plentiful and convenient. Almost every city has a
clearly marked tourist office in the center of town with lots of
signs pointing to it. Also, they keep rather liberal hours, and if
they take a break in the afternoon, it's only for an hour or two. Just follow the signs for "Tourismo". |
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The ride
from the airport to central Lisbon: |
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The Lisbon
airport is very close to the city center. It's only about a 15-20
minute ride under normal circumstances. We took advantage of a
service at the airport called "taxi voucher". We prepaid for the
taxi ride to our hotel at a service counter right in the arrivals
hall dedicated to this purpose. The girl who took care of us
at the counter took us with our receipt to the taxi driver and that
was that. He took us straight to our hotel - no add-ons, no
tip, no argument, no language problems, no muss, no fuss. We paid 17
Euro for us and our suitcases. We paid more than the standard
because we arrived on a national holiday - April 25, independence
day. The normal fare is around 12 or 13 Euro. I highly recommend
using this service. |
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