12 days in April - May, 2005

We spent 12 days in Portugal starting on April 25. We spent all of our time in the northern 2 thirds of the country. The main attraction in the southern part is the Algarve, which is mainly sun-drenched coast and plenty of sun. Since we live on the Mediterranean and have plenty of sun, this area didn't interest us. Overall, we enjoyed this trip very much - the people are great, the fish is great, and the prices are still the lowest in western Europe.

 

Our itinerary is listed below:

 
 
3 nights Lisbon
2 nights Obidos
2 nights Viana do Castello
2 nights Porto
1 night Marvao
2 night Setubal
   
 
Before I describe the trip in detail, here are a few observations about traveling in Portugal:
The People:

The people are super. They are always ready and eager to help. In the larger towns, most of them speak passable English and a large portion of the rest understand Spanish, or other languages. In the smallest towns, bring a dictionary. We found restauranteurs with English-Portuguese dictionaries at hand in order to try to understand us or explain something to us.

The food:

This is a country for fish lovers. There's plenty of seafood as well (surprisingly on the pricy side) , but the fish in Portugal was the freshest and tastiest of any we have eaten anywhere. They know how to prepare the fish, and it's always fresh from the sea. Many of the restaurants feature a grill outside the restaurant right on the sidewalk and of course you can pick your fish from the display case. Only once did I ask if the fish was fresh. The chef poked the fish, which jumped a little, and he said;    "Fresh...???  Look at it! It's still alive!!"  We also found out that we enjoyed the simplest restaurants more than the expensive ones. We ate at a lot of really great small restaurants and I've tried to remember all the names.

The "cover":

Almost without exception, every restaurant, big and small, cheap or expensive, big city or village, charges a "cover". Generally this means bread and butter, sometimes with the addition of olives or some other minor item. This "cover" will appear on the bill and is mandatory. Depending on the restaurant the "cover" will cost somewhere between one and 3 Euros per person.  In many restaurants, the waiter will bring more items like these, perhaps a platter of cheese or salami, or an octopus salad. If you do not refuse these items before you start eating, they will appear on the bill whether you eat them or not. It's perfectly acceptable to reject these items, although some waiters seemed rather disappointed. 

The driving:

I've read that Portugal has the highest death rate on the highway in western Europe. I can't dispute that. The drivers on the highway are very aggressive, and tailgate as a rule. They also signal for a change of lanes after they've already started.  In contrast to their driving on the highway, in town they are very courteous. They will stop before a crosswalk even if you are only waiting on the sidewalk. In the countryside, there are two distinct types of roads - the "autostrada" - modern toll roads, which are quite expensive, and secondary roads which are clogged with local traffic. Very few roads between these two classes.

Tourist information:

Information for tourists is plentiful and convenient. Almost every city has a clearly marked tourist office in the center of town with lots of signs pointing to it. Also, they keep rather liberal hours, and if they take a break in the afternoon, it's only for an hour or two. Just follow the signs for "Tourismo". 

The ride from the airport to central Lisbon:

The Lisbon airport is very close to the city center. It's only about a 15-20 minute ride under normal circumstances. We took advantage of a service at the airport called "taxi voucher". We prepaid for the taxi ride to our hotel at a service counter right in the arrivals hall dedicated to this purpose.  The girl who took care of us at the counter took us with our receipt to the taxi driver and that was that. He took us straight to our hotel -  no add-ons, no tip, no argument, no language problems, no muss, no fuss. We paid 17 Euro for us and our suitcases.  We paid more than the standard because we arrived on a national holiday - April 25, independence day. The normal fare is around 12 or 13 Euro. I highly recommend using this service.

Here's a description of the highpoints of our visit.  Click on the thumbnails to see the full size picture.
Lisbon    

Lisbon is a fun city to tour.  It's the smallest capital city in western Europe and it's quite easy to get around. We bought a transportation pass for 3 days and that was a wonderful solution. We bought it at a place behind the "Elevador de Gloria" in the Baixa area. The price was 3.10 Euro per day per person and this entitled us to travel on any bus, tram, or subway in the city, as well as the "elevators" which take you from down to up. Some information on the web says you can get such a pass for either 1 or 6 days only, but this is not accurate. We bought exactly the number of days we wanted and paid for it by credit card. 

The main places to visit in central Lisbon are the Baixa, the lower downtown area which is laid out as a matrix and which can be walked from end to end in 20 minutes, the Alfama, the old Moorish part of town located on a steep hill, and the Alto Barrio, the upper old city which has many restaurants, night clubs and fado bars. One of the places not to miss is the Saint George Castle in Alfama. To the right is a picture of of the view of Lisbon from the castle ramparts.  Click on it to see the full version.
Away from the center of town are several areas worth visiting. One is Belem located a few kilometers from the city center, which has many attractions and many monuments, including one of the most famous of Lisbon's monuments, "The Monument of Discovery". Belem can be reached via tram number 28, or several different bus lines.  Another area which shouldn't be missed is the Parque das Nacoes area which was built for the Expo in 1998. This ultra-modern area includes a beautiful shopping center, restaurants, a municipal auditorium, a cable car running the length of the area along the river, and the beautiful Vasco de Gama Bridge. The easiest way to get there is the underground to the "Oriente" stop.