The past 15 months have been dedicated to visiting the far east, so it was only natural that after China and Thailand, we would check out Japan. We decided on a group tour due to several factors, mainly the fact that Japan is very expensive and we would have to deal with a totally foreign culture and language.
Our 2 week trip started in the middle of April 22, at the tail end of the cherry blossom season. We were 27 people in the group and we went with an Israeli company "TAMASA" which specializes in Japan. Unfortunately, the company has since ceased to exist. 
We found Japan fascinating and amazing. The country is as advanced as any in the world, but still immersed in an ancient and self absorbed culture. We were very impressed by many things. Here's a summary below.

THE PEOPLE

The first thing you find amazing in Japan is the people. They are so polite, so accommodating and so helpful. The most important word to learn in Japanese is the word "sumimasen" which means "excuse me". They are always using it. You will also find them bowing constantly, out of respect and habit - when greeting, when handing something to you, whenever.  The Japanese are so helpful that if you ask someone on the street for assistance getting somewhere, it's very possible that they will take you by the hand to your destination. They are also very hard working and that's why when the restaurants fill up with office workers at the end of a day's work, it's usually at around 9 PM.

EVERYTHING WORKS!!

I was amazed by the fact that in Japan, EVERYTHING WORKS!! No matter where you go or what you are dealing with, the level of maintenance is very high, and it's very difficult to find anything that is broken or doesn't work.  The best example of this is the toilets. The standard in any hotel includes a seat with a built in bidet, electronic controls and a heating element. The amazing thing is these toilet seats can be found in public toilets and they all work. Where I come from, (New Jersey, USA) it wouldn't matter if they worked or not, because they wouldn't last long, as they would all disappear very quickly.
Check out the picture to the right. It shows a public toilet. Note the toilet seat and the bidet controls on the tight side of it. Also note the little baby seat on the wall (to deposit baby while you are busy), as well as the very neat and orderly waste bin on the floor. When it comes to toilets, the Japanese have thought of everything!

EVERYTHING IS SO CLEAN!

The Japanese are fanatic about cleanliness and order. Everything and everywhere is very clean. Only in Tokyo did we even find a cigarette butt on the street. Another amazing sight we saw was that there are actually homeless in Tokyo but they are concentrated in one place (right near the Shinjuko train station) and they are neatly laid out in a row on mattresses against the building wall. Nearby there are tables with ladies taking contributions for them. Here's another example of the Japanese penchant for cleanliness in the picture to the right. In the picture is a secure umbrella "depository". It can be found at the entrance of many large buildings. You can't take a wet umbrella into the building (so as not to wet the floor) so this depository is provided. Each compartment has a lock and a key which you take until you leave and want to retrieve your umbrella.


 ART & CULTURE

 

All of the Japanese arts are typified by extreme attention to detail, ceremony, and completeness. This has been explained by the fact that for several hundred years, Japan was completely isolated from the outside world. During this time, all foreign things were forbidden and the Japanese invested "internally" by perfecting their own art-forms.   

 

THE
FOOD

 

We didn't fall in love with the food. We found it boring and rather bland. We're very familiar with sushi, and we enjoyed the sushi we ate, but everything else we found very predictable and of course, always with lots of rice - sticky white rice only. Perhaps the most interesting thing to eat is the soups which are very popular particularly among tourists. Ordering "Ramen" doesn't take any particular talent and you know what you are getting. Instant ramen noodles are popular all over Asia, but Ramen eaten in Japan are far from instant noodles. Ramen is a typical Japanese food and when made in a soup filled with lots of other ingredients, it's a full meal. It's also the ultimate Japanese fast food. There are 2 other kinds of popular noodle soups - udon (thick wheat noodles) and soba ( thin buckwheat noodles).

RAMENLICIOUS
(all about ramen)

THE OFFICIAL
RAMEN HOMEPAGE

lots of recipes

ALL ABOUT
JAPANESE FOOD

GOLDEN WEEK

We were in Japan during Golden Week, which is a week filled with several different holidays. It made our visit very interesting because almost everyday was a holiday and the Japanese were out in force visiting the same sites we were. It did not create any real problems except for a couple of schedule changes made in order to avoid expected  heavy traffic.

 

THE
PRICES

We were concerned about the high prices in Japan, but in our opinion, they were about the same as the prices in Europe. That's not cheap, but less than we expected. A simple meal for lunch costs around $10. The popular Japanese soups (see below) cost around $5-10 and most provided a filling meal. On the other hand, we didn't eat in any high quality restaurants so we can't make any judgment there. 

 

BASEBALL

I knew that baseball is very popular in Japan, but I had no idea how much. I'm a life long American baseball fan, so I was very interested in this phenomenon. The Japanese follow their own local baseball very intensely, but I was surprised how closely they follow the American leagues, and of course in particular, the American teams with Japanese players. Every evening there was a game on TV, and at the end of the evening there was always a baseball summary, which included what was happening in American baseball. There were even live broadcasts of American games, but they were usually on at 8 AM, so I couldn't hang around in the hotel to watch.  

 

VENDING MACHINES

The Japanese are crazy about vending machines. You can find them everywhere and they dispense just about anything, from fast food to alcoholic drinks to coffee brewed in front of your eyes on a video screen. If you stop at a rest stop on the highway, you'll usually find a long building with several different restaurants inside, and outside a long row of vending machines and food stalls selling hot fast food.  Here's a picture to the right.


VENDING MACHINES

THE
HOTELS

In every good Japanese hotel, (maybe in all of them - I don't know), the hotel provides pajamas for personal use. If the hotel has a spa, you can use the them to walk down to the spa, or you can just sleep in them. Here I am to the right modeling my pajamas at the temple in Koya where we stayed overnight. This garment may be called a "yukata" in Japanese, but I'm not 100% sure.
I will name and review the hotels we stayed at, but I can't really express a full opinion because we didn't pick the hotels and I did no research, other than checking the hotels where we actually slept. In general, we stayed in excellent hotels.


PAJAMA MODEL
IN KOYA

 


Below is our travel itinerary

 
 
Days 1-2 Kyoto
Day 3 Kyoto to Mount Koya and overnight stay in a Buddhist temple
Day 4 Koya - Osaka
Day 5 Osaka - Hiroshima
Day 6 Hiroshima - Nagoya
Day 7 Nagoya - Takayama
Day 8 Takayama - Matsumoto
Day 9 Hakone
Days 10-14 Tokyo (including a day trip to Niko)

As is typical with guided tours, the schedule was very intense and included  7(!) one-nighters. Fortunately we finished with 4 nights in the same hotel in Tokyo.

 
 


Below is a summary of where we went and what we saw.

 
 

CLICK ON ANY THUMBNAIL TO SEE A FULL SIZED PICTURE

 

       
 

K Y O T O

 


OCTOPUS BALLS


Kyoto is the spiritual center of Japan and it is full of temples and shrines. It is the third largest city in Japan, and is also one of the oldest and was the nation's capital for a 1000 years. It's most famous for its temples, and its geishas. If you are flying to Kyoto, you will arrive at Kansai airport which services the area of Kyoto and Osaka. and is built entirely on an artificial island.
In Kyoto we had our first taste of octopus which is a very popular fast food dish in Japan, but particularly in Kyoto. It's called "takoya kai". In this case it was a piece of octopus within a ball of dough and deep fried. We called them "octopus balls". Here's a picture of octopus balls to the left. In Kyoto we stayed at the Monterey Kyoto, which had a beautiful chapel right in the middle of the lobby. 

We spent 2 and a half days in Kyoto and saw a remarkable number of attractions. Here's a capsule description of them. They are not in chronological or geographic order.

THE HISTORY AND BACKGROUND OF KYOTO

KYOTO TRAVEL GUIDE

KYOTO ATTRACTIONS

 

 

ON THE WOODEN BRIDGE AT HEIAN SHRINE

 

HEIAN SHRINE

NIJO CASTLE: This castle was built by the first shogun, Tokugawa. It was completed in 1603 and used as the shogunate residence. It's a UNESCO world heritage site.

HEIAN SHRINE: Heian Jingu was built in 1895 to celebrate the 1100th anniversary of the establishment of Heian-kyo (the old name of Kyoto). It has a beautiful garden and a rare covered wooden bridge. To the above left is a picture of Alisa and me on the wooden bridge with part of the gardens in the background. Below and to the left is a view of Heian temple which is perhaps my favorite picture of the trip.

HISTORY OF NIJO CASTLE

A WELL DETAILED
SITE ABOUT HEIAN SHRINE

 

CLICK ON ANY THUMBNAIL TO SEE A FULL SIZED PICTURE

 
     

A NICE COLLECTION OF PICTURES OF KIYUMIZU AND OLD KYOTO

ABOUT KIYUMIZU TEMPLE

EXCELLENT SITE
ABOUT KINKAKUJI

 

KIYUMIZU TEMPLE: Kiyumizu is a cluster of shrines overlooking Kyoto. The temple complex is perhaps the best known single attraction in the city. It was built in the 8th century and the view of Kyoto from here is stunning. Here's a picture to the right. There's lots to see at Kiyumizu, and after descending the long stairway, you reach a part of Kyoto which has existed since the Edo era in the 1600's. This is known as old Kyoto, and is primarily 2 narrow streets called Ninenzaka and Sinenzaka. On these streets are some really old buildings and many shops. Here's a picture to the right showing Ninenzaka Street which I have displayed mainly to show the only thing we saw in Japan that wasn't perfectly arranged. Check out those electric cables!!!

KINKAKUJI TEMPLE: Also known as the golden pavilion, it is a beautiful site and the main building is a beautiful bright yellow. It was first built in the in the 14th century, but the main building was burned to the ground by a disturbed monk in 1951 and rebuilt in 1955.

THE VIEW OF KYOTO FROM THE KIYUMIZU SHRINE

 

NINENZAKA ROAD
IN OLD KYOTO

 


RYOANJI TEMPLE
: This a Zen temple whose main attraction is its beautiful rock garden.  It's a very pleasant place to sit and relax and count the rocks. There are 15 rocks in all, but from the anywhere in the viewing area, you can only see 14 of them.

 

GEISHA WALKING LECTURE

ABOUT GEISHAS

ABOUT GION CORNER

GION NEIGHBORHOOD: Kyoto isn't only temples. No visit would be complete without a stroll in its most famous neighborhood. Gion is the entertainment district of Kyoto, and is where the city's remaining Geishas still ply their trade. If you are lucky, in the evening you may even see a few of them fully made up walking to their appointments. In Gion, we attended a Japanese cultural show. which displays seven of Kyoto's traditional performing arts. It is called "Gion Corner", and it was very entertaining. Unfortunately, we attended one on our first night in Japan, and we were all dead tired.


MUSIC AT
GION CORNER

  SANJUSANGENDO: This is a spectacular Buddhist Temple, established in the twelfth century, which houses 1001 carved wooden statutes of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy,  set in ranks in the main hall. On January 15 each year a competition of Japanese archery (kyudo) is held outside the hall.

 

THIS SITE HAS A WONDERFUL SET OF PICTURES.

 

FUREAIKAN CRAFT MUSEUM: This museum shouldn't be missed.  It exhibits various handicrafts utilizing silk, bamboo, lacquer ware, paper or ceramics, and also introduces the visitor to the delicate workmanship of traditional crafts through videotapes and the chance to experience Yuzen dying firsthand. Unfortunately photography is forbidden, but admission is free.

 HOME SITE OF THE MUSEUM.
IT'S MOSTLY IN JAPANESE BUT THERE ARE SOME PICTURES WHICH WILL GIVE YOU AN IDEA...


HERE'S A YOUTUBE VIDEO ON NISHIKI MARKET

 

TEA CEREMONY

 

NISHIKI MARKET: This is a big produce market in the middle of Kyoto. It's amazing because it is so orderly and so clean. Later on, we realized that all the markets in Japan are clean and orderly - like nowhere else we have ever been. Here's a picture to the right of a stall selling gigantic bamboo shoots. I believe it is the biggest food market in Kyoto and people say that there is no kind of food which you cannot find here.


BAMBOO STORE
IN NISHIKI MARKET

TEA CEREMONY: We attended a tea ceremony at a school which teaches the tea ceremony. Our Japanese guide, Junka, at one time was a student there, and she arranged the visit. It was fascinating. To the left are 2 pictures, one of Alisa trying her luck pouring and the second of our group being served tea. Here is a link to a site which will explain everything you could ever possibly want to know about the tea ceremony.

 

THE KYOTO TRAIN STATION: The Kyoto train station is an incredible architectural wonder. It was designed by world famous Japanese architect Hiroshi Hara. The station is about 20 stories high and is futuristic and very impressive. On the other hand, we found it to be very impractical and difficult to find one's way around. It's full of stores and restaurants but very few rest rooms. Here's a picture to the right.


KYOTO
TRAIN STATION


BET SHALOM CHOIR

BET SHALOM: I've saved "Bet Shalom" (house of peace) for last for a reason. For a Jew from Israel, the organization called "Bet Shalom" is very meaningful and a visit to their headquarters in Kyoto is very moving. The organization is made up of Japanese Christians who love Israel and everything about it.
The movement's founder, Takeji Otsuki, had a revelation from God in 1938 when he was told to pray for peace in Jerusalem and for the Jewish people. Otsuki was also told that within 10 years there would be a Jewish state. Thus, Beit Shalom was born. Today it has 100 churches and 10,000 followers.
They sponsor various programs, they travel to Israel,  host tourist groups from Israel, and even provide lodgings for  short stays for travelers from Israel. We visited their headquarters in Kyoto and were serenaded by their well known choir singing Israeli songs in Hebrew. After the concert we were greeted by the current leader, and were hosted with light refreshment. All in all, a very moving experience. As far as I can tell from my searching, they don't have a web site.  Here's a picture of the choir to the left.

 
 

In summary regarding our 2.5 days in Kyoto, it is a very fascinating city. If you visit Kyoto on your own, don't miss the craft museum, and the Nishiki market. As for the temples, they are all impressive, each in its own way, so you'll just have to pick the ones which appeal to you. I would say that we enjoyed the Kiyumizu most of all, because of its sprawling layout and magnificent view of the city.

 
     
 

M O U N T   K O Y A

 

THE STORY AND LEGEND OF KOYASAN

THE OFFICIAL SITE OF THE KOYASAN TORUIST ASSOCIATION

ABOUT BUDDHIST TEMPLES

ABOUT SHINGON TEMPLES

ABOUT KOYASAN, WORLD HERITAGE SITE

A DESCRIPTION OF A STAY AT A TEMPLE, INCLUDING SOME GOOD PICTURES

ABOUT VISITING KOYASAN BY
"THINGS ASIAN"

A GREAT DESCRIPTION OF A VISIT TO KOYA

KOYASAN: Mount Koya is known as "Koyasan" to the Japanese and is one of the most holy places in Japan. It is the center of Shingon Buddhism, a Buddhist sect which was introduced to Japan in 805 by a monk called Kukai, who was posthumously honored by the Emporer who gave him the name Kobo Daishi, or "Great Teacher/Saint Who Spreads Widely the Buddha's Teaching."  Kukai visited China and brought the secrets of Buddhism back to Japan.  He settled on Koya mountain and began to build his temple. His teachings spread and the area around Koya rapidly expanded and at its peak there were over 1500 temples in the area. Today this number has dropped to less than a tenth of that, although in all of Japan today, there are 10,000 Shingon temples. At the age of 62 in the year 834, Kukai "transitioned" into a condition of meditation which has lasted to the present time and will continue until the arrival of Miroku Butsu, the next true successor to the original Buddha. His meditating body is in a temple on Koyasan.  Koyasan has been named a UNESCO world heritage site.

 

 

 

 

 

Our trip included a one- night stay in a Buddhist temple, and our guide, Ehud kept warning us about the primitive conditions we would probably have to endure - sleeping on the floor, a very cold room, common bathrooms, etc... In the end, he was surprised and we wound up at what he called a "5 star temple". The rooms were fine, we slept on the floor, but on very nice futons, and each room was well heated and had a bathroom and shower even pajamas!! On the other hand, he hadn't really prepared us for the food. We had the same fare (called shojin ryori) as the monks which was vegetarian and sparse. Dinner wasn't too bad, as we had eaten lunch and there was plenty of rice to fill up on, but breakfast was an experience. The tray had a few strange items on it and everybody was hungrier after the meal than before. The first thing we did when we left the Monastery was head to the nearest restaurant for breakfast. Check the picture on the right to see our group at dinner. While there, we were invited to join the monks in their morning prayer (at 6 o'clock!).

DINNER IN KOYA

 

KONGOBUJI: While in Koya, we visited the Kongobuji, the main temple and headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. This temple houses the largest rock garden in Japan.
We also visited the shrine where Kukai's body is meditating which is located in a very unusual cemetery. It's called "Okunoin".This cemetery is a very popular place to have your ashes buried in and is filled with the most unusual monuments. (In Japan, most bodies are cremated and the ashes are buried in a cemetery.) Some companies have buried workers here and others have buried their senior executives. One monument is a rocket, apparently commemorating the founder or leader of a rocket manufacturer. Check the 2 pictures to the right.


KOYA CEMETERY

     
 

N A R A

In Nara, which was the first capital of unified Japan, we visited 2 temple sites which are located right next to one another. One is a Buddhist temple called "Todaiji", which houses the a giant Buddha inside the largest wooden building in the world, and where deer roam freely.  The other is a Shinto Temple and is called "Kasuga"

NARA TOURISM

NICE SITE WITH SOME GREAT PICTURES OF TODAIJI

ABOUT KASUGA

     

YOUTUBE VIDEO ON THE UMEDA SKY BUILDING

HISTORY AND BACKGROUND INFO ON HIMEJI CASTLE

PRACTICAL INFO FOR VISITING HIMEJI CASTLE

ABOUT THE SHINKANSEN AND HOW TO USE THE JAPANESE RAIL SYSTEM

O S A KA

In Osaka, we visited the "Shin Umeda Building" otherwise known as the Umeda Sky Building, where we went up to the "floating garden observatory" on the 39th floor for a great view of the city. Despite the fact that there was no garden in the floating garden observatory, this is one impressive building.

In Osaka we stayed at what was one of the nicest hotels of the trip, the Nikko Osaka. Not much to add here - it was a beautiful modern hotel with big luxurious rooms.

HIMEJI CASTLE is about 85 Km from Osaka. It is the best preserved castle in all of Japan.  It was built in the 14th century and has withstood wars, earthquakes and the aerial bombing of WWII. The castle is very impressive as you approach it. It has beautiful grounds and it is possible to tour the entire interior of the castle, although there are a lot of stairs (six floors worth).

In Osaka, we were introduced to the Japanese dish called "Okonomiyaki" which is a cross between a pancake and a pizza, although there are many styles. In Osaka, it was more like a pancake but in Hiroshima where it is most famous, it is more like a pizza and you can put anything in (or on it). People enjoy sitting at okonomiyaki bars in large groups where the chef prepares it in front of you for the whole group. It's very entertaining. Do check out the 2 YouTube clips below.                            

We had a mixup at Himeji Castle collecting all our travelers and we nearly missed the "bullet train" (Shinkansen) to Hiroshima.  We found out exactly how punctual the trains are in Japan. Our train was set to leave at 15:50, and we were still on the bus at 1545. Everybody got prepared to jump from the bus with all their belongings and run for the train. Our guide ran ahead to find out which pier the train would be leaving from.  We got to the train and ran on board. The last of us got on, the doors closed, and the train took off. The time? 15:50 exactly. After riding on the bullet train twice, I can tell you that the train stops at each station for 45-90 seconds, depending on the number of passengers getting on or off. We were lucky we made it.

 
     
 

THE OFFICIAL HOME PAGE OF THE HIROSHIMA PEACE PARK

A PICTURE TOUR AROUND THE PARK

A VIRTUAL TOUR OF THE HIROSHIMA PEACE MEMORIAL PARK

A NICE SITE OF PICTURES OF THE PARK

THE HISTORY OF HIROSHIMA

 

H I R O S H I M A

The visit to the Hiroshima Peace Park is a very moving experience. The city has been completely rebuilt, and at ground zero where the atomic bomb was dropped, they left the only building (today called the A-bomb dome) which survived the blast (see the picture to the right) and built a park and a museum  around it. The park and the museum were designed and built after the war, and are a memorial to the people who died in the atomic blast. The aim of the park and museum is to promote the abolition of nuclear weapons and the realization of world peace.
The museum is very well done, with pictures, documentation of the devastation, films, exhibits showing the effect of the blast on common every-day items, and many first hand accounts by survivors of what they went through. See the pictures to the right. The nicest aspect of the park is that it is not a mourning ground, but rather a beautiful and vibrantly alive park where the people of Hiroshima come to spend time and enjoy themselves. 

There isn't a whole lot to see or do in Hiroshima besides the peace park. The most interesting thing we did was eat in a  6 story building entirely dedicated to the food called okonomiyaki, described above. The building is called "Okonomimura", otherwise known as "Okonomiyaki Village". We sat with about 15 people around the chef's grill as he made each platter per the specific instructions of each diner. He laughed when he saw Alisa eating with her own plastic knife and fork (most restaurants in Japan serve only chop sticks), but after the meal, took them, washed them and put them neatly into a plastic bag.  Here's a link to an entertaining description about eating okonomiyaki in Okonomimura.

We stayed at the Ana Crown Plaza Hotel, another nice hotel located about a 10 minute walk from the park.

THE A-BOMB DOME

 

HIROSHIMA
PEACE PARK

     

OFFICIAL TOURIST SITE OF MIYAJIMA

A NICE ARTICLE AND SOME BEAUTIFUL PICTURES OF MIYAJIMA

ABOUT SHINTO SHRINES

MIYAJIMA ISLAND

MIYAJIMA is an island in the Sea of Japan not far from Hiroshima. We took a short ferry ride to get to it and we spent a few hours there. "Miyajima" means shrine island, and is a holy place in the Shinto religion. The most striking landmark here is a giant red Shinto arch (known as a torii gate) which is in the water when the tide is high. Deer and monkeys roam the island freely and it is known as one of Japan's three most scenic spots. There is a cable car (actually a minibus and 2 separate cable cars to go up to the top of Misen, the island's highest mountain. Down at sea lea level, there is a sacred Shinto shrine here called ITSUKUSHIMA, which most of the group visited. We had seen enough shrines for a while and decided to spend some time on the very nice shopping street near the shore. We browsed, bought a few things, and ate lunch. We had the local specialty' "anago meshi", cooked eel with rice. The island is really a beautiful spot and well worth visiting. To the right is a picture of Alisa and our guide Jucha on Miyajima. Please note he deer on the left
After Miyajima, we drove back to Hiroshima and took the shinkansen to Nagoya. This time, Ehud made sure we left in time and we got there in plenty of time to make the train.


ALISA AND JUCHA
AT MIYAJIMA

     
 

N A G O Y A

In Nagoya, we stayed at the Hotel Grand Court Nagoya. I think this was the best hotel of the trip. Nagoya is not a major tourist attraction, and we were there because it was a good stopover and a jump-off point for our next destination, Yaotso.
The only memorable thing that happened in Nagoya was that we had the most interesting meal of the trip. We ate at a kushiyaki restaurant. Kushiyaki is skewered grilled food made with bite sized pieces of beef, pork, fish, seafood or vegetables
. We ordered one set menu but got two. Once the food started coming , it was too delicious to send it back. In total, there were 10 (small) courses.  Alisa doesn't usually eat meat, but this food was so good, she couldn't resist and ate everything offered.

 


THE VIEW FROM
THE SUGIHARA
MEMORIAL

Y A O T S U

Yaotsu is a small village in the mountains and is the home of the former Japanese diplomat Chiune Sugihara, who was the Japanese general consul in Lithuania at the beginning of World War II. Shugihara defied the direct orders of his government and bravely gave transit documents to several thousand Jews who were fleeing the Nazis. At the time, they had only one place to go, which was the Dutch colony of Curacao, a small island off the northern shore of South America. But, to get there they had only one route they could follow, and that route was through the Soviet Union and Japan. The transit documents Shugihara provided them allowed them to  pass through Japan thereby saving their lives.
On the outskirts of the village on a hill with a beautiful view of the countryside, they have built a modest museum and a small park dedicated to Sugihara. The park is called "The Hill of Humanity" memorial park. A picture of the view from the site is on the left.

A BRIEF BIOGRAPHY
OF SUGIHARA

THE SUGIHARA FOUNDATION - DIPLOMATS FOR LIFE

CHIUNE SUGIHARA -
THE JAPANESE SCHINDLER

     

ABOUT VISITING TAKAYAMA AND SHIRAKAWA GO

A BLOG AND SOME NICE PICS OF A VISIT

THE OFFICIAL UNESCO SITE ABOUT SHIRAKAWA GO

MORE ON GASSHO

THE SHIRAKAWA COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY HOMEPAGE
(cute page with lots of practical information)

ABOUT THE 2 EXHIBITION HALLS IN TAKAYAMA

A NICE PHOTO ALBUM OF A VISIT TO TAKAYAMA
(by Marc who visited places we didn't get to)

TAKAYAMA & SHIRAKAWA GO

TAKAYAMA and SHIRAKAWA GO together was one of the highlights of the trip.  They are located up in the Japanese Alps and and are about an hour apart.  Shirakawa Go (and several other neighboring villages) is a UNESCO world heritage site and is like a living museum showing how the Japanese built their homes centuries ago using the "gassho" style, with steeply pitched thatched roofs meant to handle heavy snowfall. See the picture to the right.


SHIRAKAWA GO

Takayama is a much larger town than Shirakawa Go and is famous for its woodworking and other crafts. It is also famous for its festival which is held twice a year, in April and October. One of the attractions is the "Yatai Kaikan" museum housing the floats used in the festival. If you can't get to the festival, you can at least see the floats, which  have incredible carvings and are very impressive.
The admission price to the festival museum also allows entrance to Sakurayama Nikko Kan right next door which houses 1:10 scale models of all the major temples in Nikko (which we were to visit a few days later while in Tokyo). This doesn't sound like a very exciting place to visit, but it was quite incredible. The models are exquisite, with incredibly detailed miniature artwork, and there are even lighting effects, which allow you to simulate different times of day (sunrise, sunset, etc.).  All in all it was a fascinating visit to both exhibition halls. Here are 2 pictures to the right. Keep in mind that It's only a one tenth size model!

NIKKO MODELS IN
TAKAYAMA

 

 


CARVED WOOD
PRODUCTS IN
TAKAYAMA

The other major attraction in Takayama is San Maji Street, an absolutely beautiful shopping street with beautiful stores and beautiful handicrafts. It's also got quite a few sake breweries which sell their wares and provide sampling. Takayama is famous for its sake. It's one market street we didn't want to leave. To the left is a picture of a sampling of wood products and to the right is one of many sake shops.


SAKE SHOP IN
TAKAYAMA

 

The last thing we did in the Takayama area, was visit the  headquarters of the very strange "Sukyo Mahikari", a religious organization (cult?) which calls itself The True Light". The reason we visited is that their center in Takayama is an opulent and extravagant building with an amazing array of symbols on it, the most unusual being the Jewish Star of David. We took a tour inside the temple (no pictures) and received a lecture from a young disciple (who seemed to be high on something) who told us that despite the Jewish symbols,  there was no connection to Judaism. She explained the principles of the religion and invited us to take part in prayers. See the picture to the right.


SUKYO MAHIKARI

ABOUT STAYING IN A RYOKAN

THE JAPANESE RYOKAN ASSOCIATION

 

It's very popular in this area to stay in  traditional Japanese guest houses  called "ryokan". These are usually small guest houses with traditional facilities and local family management and which do not cater to large groups, as they are usually rather small. They are the Japanese equivalent of the western B&B. Here's a link to a very nice one in Takayama. Most of them are simpler than this one. More information to the left.
 
 

We stayed at a hotel named the "Hotel Assoc Resort Takayama". The hotel was nice and had a regular shuttle which drove down to the Takayama town center which was only a few minutes away. The main attraction here was the "Furo", the Japanese baths which are located on 2 floors of the hotel and were absolutely beautiful. One floor was for women and the other for men and every day they alternated, because, we were told that the view on one of the floors was superior to the view on the other floor. In any case, on the evening we were there, the men got the "better" floor and it was a real pleasure, and a major spot for relaxation after a long day on the road to relax in the hot bath and and look out onto the lights of the city below.
The "furo" is a major Japanese cultural activity and there are 2 major types  - the "onsen" using water from a natural hot spring, or a "sento" which uses heated tap water.  Either one is a Japanese institution for relaxation, not for bathing to get clean. That is to say, full facilities are provided for showering and cleaning one's body before entering the bath and that is the expected behavior. Anything else is very offensive to the Japanese. In this hotel (on the men's floor) there were several different pools to lounge in and it was a very nice experience.  Alisa was less pleased on the ladies floor because it was very crowded with mothers and children. She enjoyed it more at a hotel where we stayed a few days later, where the baths were less luxurious but also empty and quiet and relaxing. 

MORE ABOUT THE JAPANESE PUBLIC BATH

AND SOME MORE ON THE SUBJECT


THE BLACK CASTLE
OF MATSUMOTO

M A T S U M O T O

The only place we visited in Matsumoto was the city's black castle. Actually, we only visited the outside as we didn't have time to visit inside. It's very impressive sitting in the middle of a lake and is beautifully lit up at night. Picture to the left.

We stayed in the Buena Vista Hotel which had a beautiful restaurant and a Zen rock garden attached to it. We could see the garden from our window, but couldn't get into the restaurant because it was full as we were in Japan during the "Golden Week", a week long string of holidays. In the evening, Alisa and I strolled in the old part of town, which looked very interesting, but when we were there, most everything was closed.

 
 

 

 

 

H A K O N E

Hakone is about 80 KM from Tokyo. It is a very popular day trip from Tokyo as it is a beautiful area with lots of attractions.  We drove there from Matsomoto to see the number one attraction in the area which is, of course, Mount Fuji.

FUJISAN: Mount Fuji is the highest mountain in Japan, and because of its beautiful symmetrical volcanic cone shape is probably the most photographed mountain in the world. It is a holy place to both Buddhists and Shintoists and hundreds of thousands of pilgrims visit it every year, many to climb it. On the drive from Matsumoto we were fortunate and got terrific clear views of the great mountain. I don't have any shots of Fuji which can compete with the great professional shots available on the internet. There's a link to a great site on the right.

ABOUT CLIMBING FUJI

A GREAT SITE OF FUJI PICTURES


GOTEMBA
PEACE PARK

On the way to Hakone we visited the nearby Gotemba (or Hakone) Peace Park which is located very close to Fuji and affords very nice views of the mountain. The park is a Buddhist Park and is a beautiful place to visit. At the top of the hill is a white Indian pagoda which holds Buddhist relics. Here's a picture to the left.

 

 

HAKONE OPEN AIR MUSEUM

 


ALISA AND MIKA
IN THE HAKONE
OPEN AIR MUSEUM

By far, the most impressive attraction in the area was the Hakone Open Air Museum. It's actually a statuary park, and the entire setting and the collection of modern statues were nothing short of spectacular. We spent 3 hours there photographing everything in sight and even that wasn't enough. Check the picture to the left and the two to the right. The one on the left gives an example of Japanese ingenuity.  Alisa and Mika, (our Japanese guide for the second week of the trip) are soaking their feet in a water trough specifically designed for soaking your feet after walking around the park for an hour or two.

HAKONE NATIONAL PARK

"JAPAN VISITOR"
HAKONE GUIDE

In Hakone we visited Ashi Lake where there is a variety of things to do all in the shadow of Fujisan. We took a ride on one of several "pirate boats" which ply the lake and provide a pretty good imitation of Disneyland. Check the picture to the right. We also took a cable car up to the top of Ashi Lake. We took a cable car up to the top of the nearest mountain for a great view of the countryside. We also visited an area of geothermal activity. There are lots of thermal springs in the Hakone area.
In Hakone, we stayed at the Hotel Daihakone, which was a beautiful hotel with mediocre rooms. It did however have one of the best breakfasts of the trip, and the view from the dining room was impressive. Click on the picture to the right.

PIRATE SHIP ON
ASHI LAKE

 

BREAKFAST IN
HAKONE

 

T O K Y O

 
 

 

Tokyo is one big city!! We stayed at the Grand Plaza. This hotel is well located as it is very near 2 subway stops and there are many restaurants within a 5- minute walk.  On the other hand, it wasn't very grand, but it was quite acceptable.
Tokyo is a very interesting city. It is the result of the agglomeration of many villages and only the main streets have names. That's right. Most streets have NO NAME. That makes it difficult to find just about anything if you don't know the city. They have an interesting system instead of conventional addresses. You can read about it here.

DIGITAL NAVIGATION ON NAMELESS TOKYO STREETS

SHOPPING TIPS  IN TOKYO

   

MORE ON TOKYO'S NEIGHBORHOODS

Tokyo is made up of many very distinctly defined neighborhoods. Here's a description of the most well known and there's another interesting link to the left. We visited quite a few of them. In fact, we visited so many places in Tokyo, I can't believe the list I compiled below.  Here's a brief description of the most interesting places we visited.

 

 

 

We started our time in Tokyo in the Shinjuko neighborhood, a schizophrenic neighborhood split into two completely different areas, Shinjuko the modern skyscraper filled and Kabuki-cho, the hedonistic center of Tokyo night life. The 2 parts are separated by the elevated rail line and they are like 2 separate worlds. Here's a great description of Shinjuko. In the "skyscraper half", we visited the Seiko building which houses the world's largest water clock and the City Hall Tower for a great city view. As a group we visited Shinjuko during the day. After dark, Alisa and I returned to visit Kabuki-cho. It is terribly noisy, lit up like Las Vegas and filled with strip joints, private night clubs, restaurants, bars, love hotels, you name it - it's here!

 
     

ESSENTIAL GINZA

GINZA RESTAURANTS

We visited GINZA, the swankiest and most expensive neighborhood in Tokyo. It is full of nice stores, great restaurants (this year Tokyo led world as the city with the most Michelin star restaurants), galleries and a few temples as well. In Ginza is the most famous Kabuki theatre, called the "Kabukiza". Our last day in Japan was a free day, and several of the group attended a shortened kabuki production. We visited the Sony Building, which exhibits all of Sony's latest products and developments, and the giant 10 story Matsuzakaya department store. Some links to the left.

 


COFFEE THE OLD
FASHIONED WAY

Other neighborhoods we visited included HARAJUKA, where the weirdest of the Japanese hang out, AKIHABURA which is the electronics center. Here there are literally hundreds of stores all selling the latest in electronics gadgetry. We didn't need any new gadgets so we looked for the more exotic. We found a coffee shop on a back street where they brewed coffee the old fashioned way - in a glass flask over an open "bunsen burner" flame. Check out the picture to the left. 
We visited OMOTOSANDU, the "Champs Elysees" of Tokyo. Here there are the most glamorous and expensive stores in the world, but still, Alisa managed to find a bargain and bought a nice dress for a very reasonable 70 Euros. When Alisa stepped into the changing room in order to try the dress on, the salesgirl requested that she remove her shoes.  There's an elegant shopping mall called Omote Sando Hills. and lots of pretty girls shopping. To the right are 2 pictures - one of shopping dogs in sunglasses, and the other of 2 pretty Japanese girls taking a break from shopping to pose for pictures.

OMOTOSANDU SHOPPERS?

 
 

We visited the ASAKUSA neighborhood where the main attractions are the SENSOJI Temple and the Nakamise street market which is a covered market street leading right out of the temple's entrance. The temple is very impressive and the market is fascinating, but keep in mind that the area is very very crowded with these two attractions right next to one another. When we were there. it was absolutely packed with people and it was easy to get separated one from the other. 

 
     


TUNA, TUNA, TUNA!!

A visit to Tokyo wouldn't be complete without a tour of the TSUKIJI fish market. The real name of this market is the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale market and is the biggest seafood market in the world. The Japanese eat lots of fish and seafood, more than most (if not more than all) of the world's countries. This market is a working wholesale market and the main attraction is the thousands of tunas, but you can find any type of fish or seafood here. There is a public auction every morning at around 6 AM, so if you want to witness the goings on, you have to get up early. Also, keep in mind that this is a very busy place and you have to be careful you don't get run over by any of the motorized vehicles ferrying 200 pound tunas from place to place. It is a public market so anyone can come in and walk around, but the workers do not enjoy the visits by large groups. It is the only place we found in Japan where the locals were downright hostile and rude.  After your visit, you may not want to eat fish for a while, particularly tuna. Check out the picture sites to the right and the tuna spread to the left. The tuna are waiting for their turn on the auction block.

TSUJIKI FISH MARKET HOME PAGE

TSUJIKI FISH FOTO GALLERY
(great album by national geographic)

ALL ABOUT THE TSUJIKI MARKET

     
 

We visited the Emperor's Palace, but didn't go inside, as inside tours are few and far between and must be arranged in advance.  It was also raining so it was a short and uninspiring visit. Here's information about visiting.

 


EDO TOKYO MUSEUM

One of the highlights of our time in Tokyo was a visit to the EDO-TOKYO Museum. This is a museum dedicated to old Tokyo, which was called Edo. It covers 400 years of Tokyo's history. The exhibits are beautiful and expansive and try to create the atmosphere of old Tokyo. In the picture to the left, Alisa is posing with a very realistic Edo character.
The distinctive elevated shape of the museum (see the picture to the right) is modeled after  an old storehouse of the Kurazukuri style popular in the Edo period. There is a street where these Kurazukuri style buildings can be seen. The  museum is located right next to Kokugikan, the number one stadium for Sumo tournaments in Tokyo.


EDO TOKYO MUSEUM

     
 

We visited 2 parks, Oeno (pronounced "way-no") and YOYOGI. Both are beautiful and full of Japanese. On Sunday, Yoyogi is particularly lively with lots of music and dancing, and a whole collection of "rockabillie" performers.  They are called "rockabillies", but they looked like Elvis impersonators to me. See the picture to the right where Alisa picked out the cutest one to pose with.  Check out what goes on Sunday in Yoyogi park on this Youtube video. Oeno is a much more staid venue and is home to several of the most serious Tokyo museums. There's also a zoo, although we didn't see where it was. It's quite large and when we were there (twice) it was full of Japanese families and there was a book fair going on.


YOYOGI PARK

     


THE FUJI BUILDING
ON ODAIBA ISLAND

ODAIBA is a large artificial island on which has been built an amazing array of attractions. There is the unusual Fuji telecom center (see picture to the left), lots of entertainment venues, museums, theme parks, beaches, a giant Ferris wheel, the Toyota exhibition (past and future) and even the ride to get there over the impressive Rainbow Bridge is an experience. Many of the attractions have the scent of Las Vegas copies, such as a Roman Coliseum shaped building, a mini Statue of Liberty, a huge shopping mall with a Renaissance era interior, and probably lots more. Click here for a fabulous panoramic night view of Odaiba.
Odaiba has a long and interesting history. It was built on reclaimed land in 1853 and was originally a series of 6 forts designed to protect Edo (Tokyo) from naval attacks - especially from those like American Commodore Perry's black ships which arrived the same year. Apparently the forts didn't do much good. It became a public park in 1928, and but not until the mid 90's was the area redeveloped as a commercial and entertainment district.

 
 

MEIJI SHRINE

 

MEIJI LIFESTYLE
WITH LINKS TO A GREAT COLLECTION OF PICTURES

MEIJI shrine was built to honor Emperor Meiji who opened Japan up to the outside world and his Empress Shoken. It was definitely one of the more impressive Shinto shrines we visited and we visited on the right day - Sunday, when weddings take place there. We were able to witness several different wedding processions, which are done in traditional garb. See the picture to the above right for a glimpse of a Shinto bride in her wedding procession, and below it is a picture of the array of sake barrels at the entrance to the shrine site. An array of sake barrels (full or empty?) like this one are often seen at the entrance to shrines, as they were often presented to the shrine as a gift.

   
 

"Nikko wo minakereba "kikkō" to iu na"

 
 

That's what the Japanese say about Nikko. Don't say Kikko until you've seen Nikko!" In Japanese, "kikko" means magnificent.  I guess that the Japanese way of seeing "See Nikko and die."  We took a day trip from Tokyo to visit Nikko - the same day as the 6 AM visit to the fish market so it was a very long day. Nikko is a small city about 150 KM from Tokyo which is famous for its temples, the most famous and elaborate one being the Toshugo Shrine. This was also the only one we visited. The Toshuga shrine is truly magnificent and the carvings and artwork on all the buildings are incredible. In the Nikko area we also visited some modest waterfalls (Kego falls) and a nice formal lunch at the Kanaya Niko Hotel.

 
     

SAKI IN TOKYO

 

HOT KOREAN DINNER

Tokyo was the only place where we actually ate in some interesting restaurants and that there's something to mention. As I said above, near our hotel were many restaurants to choose from. We ate at one called Takadaya, a nice Japanese style restaurant with both floor seating as well as tables. We sat at a table and had some interesting dishes and sake served in bamboo cups.  See me to the left sipping sake from a bamboo cup. We also ate at a local sushi bar (Jidai) where we met 2 Japanese business-women who spoke excellent English and helped us order our meal and with whom we had an entertaining evening. They were typical Japanese business people. They had worked all day and now at 8 PM had come straight to the restaurant for dinner. They worked for a Japanese company marketing German sausage in Japan. For their help, I've decided to give their sausage a plug. If you in Japan and read this, eat "Hareico" sausage!  The third restaurant we ate at was Korean, and we had "Chige" a hot Korean stew cooked on the hot plate at our table. It was delicious but a little too hot for Alisa. It was even hotter than it looks in the picture to the left. 

     


YANAKA
CEMETERY

On our last day in Tokyo we were given the day off, that is, everyone was on their own to do whatever they wished. What unexpected freedom!! Some went to the museum, some went to the WWII shrine right near the hotel, some went to a Kabuki production. We went to one of Tokyo's older neighborhoods - YANAKA and we had a great day.
We started in the old Yanaka cemetery, which is a fascinating cemetery with the graves of famous samurai and other notables. To the left Alisa is standing in front of the monument of a (so we were told by a local) samurai. We walked the narrow streets, visited the sculpture museum and garden of sculptor Fumio Asakura, and strolled the excellent shopping street, called Yanaka Ginza. Most people on the street were Japanese and there were very few foreign tourists. It was a very authentic market and shopping street.    Strolling through the neighborhood, there were many small temples, traditional old wooden houses, small old style pubs and modest restaurants.
By continuing south from Yanaka we arrived in Ueno Park, and leisurely strolled through the park to the Ueno train station for the ride back to the hotel. We had our last meal at a fast Chinese-Japanese  food restaurant.

A PERSONAL ACCOUNT BY A JAPANESE INTERESTED IN LOCAL HIATORY

RECOMMENDED WALKING TOURS OF YANAKA

     
 

Here are what I consider the highlights of our trip:
(in no particular order)

 
 
KYOTO The craft museum, the Nishiki Market, the Kiyumizo Temple and the Gion neighborhood
KOYA Temple lodgings and the cemetery
HIROSHIMA I think the Peace Park is a must for everybody
MIYAJIMA A beautiful place to visit
TAKAYAMA Everything, including nearby Shirakawa Go
HAKONE The open air museum
NIKKO Toshuga Shrine
TOKYO Meiji Shrine, Tsujiki Fish Market, Edo-Tokyo Museum, Odaiba, Yanaka
 
     
     
 

        

 
 

THE SAMURAI
THE ULTIMATE HISTORICAL JAPANESE HERO

 
     
 

BELOW: SOME MORE LINKS TO USEFUL SITES ABOUT JAPAN

 
 

 

 
 

 

This is a page from our site "Travels with Steve & Alisa".  It describes one of the many trips we have made together.  We've built these pages not just to describe our trips, but to help other travelers if we can.  Please use the information we've provided freely, and let us know if you have any questions we might be able to answer about your own planned trip, or just let us know if we have helped you. Or perhaps you have some information we could add to the site. Visit our home page using the link to the right.                 

Enjoy your next trip!!                         ~Steve & Alisa~

LATEST UPDATE: DECEMBER 18, 2012