8 DAYS IN DECEMBER, 2021










the flag of the united arab emirates






Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum
the current ruler
of dubai


ABOVE: SHEIK ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE IN ABU DHABI




It's been 2 years since our last trip, 25 months of Corona! And, unfortunately, it's not over. However, we were able to visit Dubai in between waves of Covid. In fact, when we arrived in Dubai, it was considered safe by our home country, Israel, but when we headed home, (only 8 days later), it had been declared a red country, and we had to self-isolate for 7 days upon arrival and be tested twice for covid. We did 6 covid tests during a 2 week period in order to travel and come back. All tests were fortunately negative.
Despite all the inconvenience of covid, we do not regret making this trip, and we enjoyed it, and we learned a lot. I should stress that 2 years ago, we couldn't have made this trip, as there were no official relations between israel and the United Arab Emirates (UAE). That was changed with the signing of the "Abraham Accords", which normalized relations between Israel and the UAE.  The UAE has now become a very popular destination for Israeli tourists, particularly in winter, when the weather there isn't too hot.
We spent 8 days in total in Dubai, including 2 visits to EXPO Dubai, and one day trip to Abu Dhabi. We were surprised by many things, and what we found was not what we expected. Below are some of  our observations.





HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
OF THE UAE
The United Arab Emirates is located in the eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula, on the southeastern coast of the Persian Gulf and the northwestern coast of the Gulf of Oman. The UAE consists of seven emirates and was founded on 2 December 1971 as a federation. Six of the seven emirates (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain and Fujairah) combined on that date. The seventh, Ras al Khaimah, joined the federation on 10 February 1972. Abu Dhabi is the nation's capital. The country celebrated its 50th anniversary 10 days before we arrived, on December 2, 2021. Click here for a brief but thorough history of Dubai. 


DUBAI TODAY
To the credit of the nation's leaders, particularly Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum (and after him, his son, Sheik Mohamad al Maktoum), they foresaw the end of their modest oil and gas reserves (and revenues), and they decided to build a tourism industry and a world business center. What they built is very impressive indeed, with skyscrapers in every direction, theme parks, incredible monuments, and countless high end hotels. Everything is the biggest, the tallest, or the newest.  



MEGALOMANIA

The Sheik's vision was that if they built the tallest, the biggest, the most insane structures, "they" would come to see it, and indeed they did. Today, Dubai is a world business and financial center, as well as one of the world's most magnetic tourist centers. Dubai has the world's tallest building, several of the world's tallest hotels, the world's biggest water park, the world's second biggest shopping center, the biggest sea reclamation project and arificial island, and to top it all off, the world's biggest most useless picture frame, which I assume is the world's only 20 story picture frame. There's also the "Museum of the Future", which is so futuristic, that is 2 years behind schedule, and has no planned opening date.

CRIME
Not much to write about here. The crime rate, and particularly violent crime is very low. The reason is simple. The rich Emirati have no reason to commit crimes, and the foreign workers (90% of the population) will either quickly go to jail or be sent home. We barely saw any police during our visit.




UAE SIM CARD
Is there any country in the world which "gifts" each and every tourist (over the age of 16) who enters the country a free SIM card for use while in the country? The answer is yes, and that country is the United Arab Emirates. The program is called" Connect with Happiness", and at the passport control desk, every tourist is given a free SIM card. The SIM comes with 1 GB of data bandwith, a few minutes of calls within the UAE, and is free for 24 hours, but can be recharged for up to 30 days.  The SIM is provided by DU, one of the main telecom companies in the UAE. There are other providers as well in the UAE, and after comparing prices, I bought a SIM from KLOOK, which cost me about $14 for 2 GB, and 30 minutes of calls (within the UAE), and was valid for up to 30 days. Klook has a booth at the airport where they install and activate the SIM for you.The service and the SIM were very good, and there were no problems at all. Here is a good primer on buying a SIM card in the UAE.



COVID

Israel and the UAE have been 2 of the most successful countries in vaccinating their populations. While we visited Dubai, the covid situation was well in control, however, shortly after we left, the omicron variant hit the entire world, and covid cases exploded all over.
While we were in Dubai, the authorities were very strict and mask wearing was required even outside. In restaurants, all the staff wore masks, and when entering public attractions (like the EXPO, or other municipal museums), we were required to show our vaccination certificates. When we crossed the border between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, our temperatures were checked at a police checkpoint.



OUR
EXPECTATIONS
As Israelis, there aren't a lot of Arab countries which we can visit freely. Many of them we wouldn't visit in any case because of political instability, or outright hostility to Israel or the west in general. So, we were very excited to be able to visit Dubai. We are very familiar with Arab culture, (20% of the population of our home city of Haifa is Arab), so we thought we knew what we would find. What we found was totally different from what we expected. Everybody speaks English, and we barely heard any Arabic.  That's because almost 90% of the population are foreigners, and of those, most are Indians. Everybody communicates in English. We didn't have any contact with native Emiratis, as all the people in the tourist and services industries are foreigners.





THE CLASSES OF
UAE SOCIETY
There are 3 distinct layers of the the social fabric in Dubai, and I assume all of the UAE.
1. The
Emirati - the native Arab population who are raking in all the money. They live in walled and gated communities, far from the gleaming skyscrapers. They comprise about 11% of the population.
2. The  "expats" -  well paid professionals who hold important positions in the commercial, the technical and the tourist industries.
3. The foreign workers -  millions of low paid workers from all over the world, but mostly from east Asia, and Africa. Many work in the tourist industry, but the worst off are those in the construction industry. There are many horror stories about the construction industry, as its workers work
get low wages, and  work long hours in poor conditions. More about this below.
Most of the foreign workers leave their families to come to work in Dubai, and they have to renew their visas every 2 years. No job - no visa. They generally live several to an apartment, and send money home to their families.


 THE DARK SIDE
The situation described above has been likened by some to modern day slavery.  It could also be called voluntary enslavement. The foreigners come to Dubai to find work they can't find at home. 2 or 3 years ago, the Dubai government instituted reforms which were meant to protect the foreign workers. I have no idea whether they have been effective. I do know that we talked to the workers we came in contact with (mostly hotel staff and wait staff at restaurants) and they were eager to pour their hearts out to us when we asked them about their personal lives. Below are links to articles or videos which show both sides of the story.
ON THE BRIGHT SIDE
ON THE DARK SIDE
HOW DUBAI WAS MADE
DUBAI EVOLUTION; 1960 to 2021
DUBAI 20 YEAR TIME LAPSE
THE DEVELOPMENT OF DUBAI
HOW DID DUBAI GET SO RICH?
DUBAI - THE DARK SIDE
WHY I LEFT DUBAI
THE INVISIBLE MIGRANT WORKERS DYING
OF "NATURAL CAUSES"

THE DARK SIDE OF DUBAI THEY DON'T WANT TOURISTS TO SEE



MY TAKE




CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS
IN THE HOTEL LOBBY
INCONGRUOUS!
That's the word I think describes Dubai better than any other. There are so many incongruous things here. It's an Arab country, with more Indian restaurants than Arab restaurants. It's become an international city, but without any heart or soul. It's a country where there are more Indian dishes on the hotel breakfast menu than Arab dishes. It's a country, where they serve French croissants sprinkled with an Arab spice called zatar on them. It's a country consumed by megalomania, with huge structures built strictly to attract tourists. It's a country where the guests (the Indians) are effectively running the show. The tourist industry is totally controlled by the Indians, most of the taxi drivers are Pakistanis, and the locals are nowhere to be found. It's a country where the locals (formally desert bedouins) are trying to be Europeans, by building a branch of the Louvre, a leaning tower called Piza, a ski slope in the desert, and the Indian Hindus (the largest ethnic group in the country) are appealing to the tourists with Christmas decorations. 
And let's not forget the 6 week long Dubai shopping festival. We were there during this dubious shopping festival, and didn't notice anything special. Commercialism is rampant all the time anyway, so there's no need for a shopping festival. Christmas decorations were all over, particularly in hotels and shopping malls.

One of our taxi drivers said that the best nickname for Dubai is "DO BUY".




Despite all of the above, there's plenty to do and see.
Below is what we did (and didn't) do.


click on any thumbnail to see a full sized image


OUR PROGRAM
8 DAYS & NIGHTS TOTAL
4 NIGHTS IN THE DUBAI DOWNTOWN AREA
4 NIGHTS IN THE DUBAI MARINA AREA
2 VISITS TO EXPO DUBAI
1 TOUR OF DUBAI WITH A GUIDE AND DRIVER
1 DAY TRIP TO ABU DHABI WITH A DRIVER/GUIDE



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While in Dubai, we stayed in 2 different hotels, one in the business district, and the other in the Marina area. We did this in order to taste both these areas which are quite different one from the other. The city of Dubai is quite large, and if you are there for more than a few days (we did 8), you will spend a lot of time driving from one area to the other, primarilly, from north to south and vice versa.


 COMPREHENSIVE 30 MINUTE VIDEO OF A TOUR OF DUBAI CITY

The "downtown" area (the northern part of the city) includes the the convention center, the business district, Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa, and is close to the old parts of town, like Al Fahidi, and Deira, where all the popular markets are located. Many of the hotels in this area are located along the red Metro line which bisects the city north to south. There is nowhere to walk here - just take the metro or a taxi to your destination.


The other popular area is the Marina area, which is like another world. It is really a beautiful area, and is close to several very popular tourist attractions, among them the Palm Jumeirah Island, Madinat Jumeirah, as well as the marina area itself. An advantage of the marina area is that it is significantly closer to Abu Dhabi and the EXPO than the downtown area.


PART OF THE 8
KILOMETER
MARINA WALK


THE TOWERS
METRO STATION
DIRECTLY ACROSS FROM THE HOTEL
In the downtown area, we stayed at the Millennium Plaza Hotel. The name of the hotel was changed on January 1. It is now known as the "Tower Plaza Hotel". This is a 5 star hotel located on the main north-south roadway of Dubai, the Sheikh Zayed Road. It is located directly opposite the Emirates Towers Metro station, which is very convenient. However, even though the entrance to the station is only steps from the hotel's rear entrance, it is still an 8-10 minute walk to get to a metro train. The bridge over the 14 lane Sheik Zayed road is very looooong. 

all about the dubai marina walk

The hotel is a weak 5 stars. It's popular with groups, and the breakfast area is quite full between 8:30 and 9:30. Our room was huge, but poorly designed with very little storage area, and in the closet, the clothes bar was extremely high, so high that Alisa couldn't even reach it. The other problem was the size of the shower. It was simply too big. If you stood under the shower head, which was in the exact center of the shower, you had no contact with any of the four walls. There was also nothing to hold on to. 


THE VIEW FROM
OUR ROOM AT
THE TOWER PLAZA


OUR ROOM AT THE
CROWN PLAZA
The other hotel we stayed at was the Crowne Plaza Dubai Marina located at the Marina, of course. This hotel was one of the best big hotels we have ever stayed it. It's beautiful, fairly new, great service, well designed room, and the breakfast was a rich buffet, and was never crowded. Also the view of the marina was outstanding!


MARINA VIEW
FROM OUR
HOTEL ROOM









THE DUBAI FRAME
THE FRAME: It's billed as the biggest picture frame in the world, and that's exactly what it is. It's the kind of thing that could be built only in Dubai. It's situated in a nice green park called Zabeel Park (probably the only park in Dubai), and it has some historic displays on the ground floor. The main event is ascending in one leg of the frame, checking out the view through the windows and glass floor, and descending down the other leg. It's only 50 stories high, which doesn't compare with the Burj Khalifa, but it's a whole lot cheaper and  more accessible.


OBSERVATION LEVEL OF THE FRAME


BURJ KHALIFA: This is the tallest building in the world. We saw it from many angles, but we did not go up to the observation floors. Ascending to the top floors during peak hours costs up to 533 AED (Emirati Dirham), which is about $145! We went to the Frame instead, which cost about $14.


PARK OF THE FRAME




THE DUBAI FOUNTAINS
THE DUBAI FOUNTAINS: There is a lake at the foot of the Burj Khalifa, which is surrounded by the Burj, the Dubai Mall, and the Souk al Bahar. In the middle of the lake are the Burj Fountains, which provide nightly entertainment with loud music and dancing waters. The fountains are a big attraction, as they are about the only thing in Dubai which is free. They can be viewed from all sides, and there are quite a few restaurants to dine at and watch the fountain show several times during your meal. The fountains are very impressive, and advertised as the largest in the world, but we think that they are not as impressive as the Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas.



ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE DUBAI FOUNTAINS

TIPS FOR VISITING THE DUBAI FOUNTAINS


THE DUBAI MALL WATERFALL
DUBAI MALL: The Dubai Mall is one of the biggest malls in the world. It is by far the biggest we have ever been in. It has a giant aquarium, a waterfall, an Olympic sized ice skating rink, multiple entrances, many restaurants, a pseudo market called the "souk", and they even offer a cell phone application, which includes a navigation function, in order to help you not get lost. And, of course there are lots and lots of stores, some high end, most not. I guess this is the place to mention that Dubai is not cheap, and if you are coming for the shopping, don't bother.

SOUK AL BAHAR: Souk al Bahar is the poor cousin on the shores of Burj Lake. It is a small kitchy mall, which wants to seem like a traditional Arabian shopping oasis. It has stores selling antiques (probably phony), Persian rugs (probably made in China),  traditional clothing (one of the stores advertises Arabic designed haute couture), and quite a few restaurants. The restaurants are the best part, as several are very good, and have a great view of the fountains. We ate at 2 of them (more on that later).




MIRACLE GARDEN: The Miracle garden is an incredible botanical garden located about 20 KM outside of the city. It was by far Alisa's favorite place which we visited during this trip to Dubai.  We took a taxi there and back and spent about 2 hours. There's not much  to explain here - just enjoy the pictures...
And here is a 20 second video I made at the Miracle garden.


  MIRACLE GARDEN

PALM ISLAND: (Palm Jumeirah) is the grandest of the grand projects in Dubai. It's the largest man made island in the world, and it can be seen from outer space. It took 6 years and 12 billion US dollars to build. It has a monorail running up its spine which ends at the impressive Atlantis Hotel. And, it's not the only man made island in Dubai. There are several others in various stages of construction.
MIRACLE GARDEN

 

dubai's man-made islands

THE LIFE OF DUBAI'S RICHEST FAMILY
Other notable landmarks which are part of the project are the Nakheel Mall, The View at the Palm (240 meter high viewpoint of the entire island), and The Pointe. The Pointe is supposed to be a shopping and entertainment center, but it's a giant disappointment. There's not much there except for a few stores and restaurants, and a modest little beach. I think the main reason for this is that the Metro stop there hasn't yet opened. There is an impressive fountain display here in the evenings, but during daytime, there's no point in visiting the Pointe.



THE ATLANTIS HOTEL



THE MARINA
THE MARINA: Alisa's favorite place in Dubai was the Miracle garden, but mine was the Marina area. I found the marina to be beautiful, with lots of things to do, beautiful buildings, lots of restaurants, and a modest (by Dubai standards) shopping mall. It even has a 7 story building, called Pier 7,  which houses only restaurants, with a different style restaurant on each floor. Here you can walk the 8 kilometer Marina walk, or take a cruise on one of the many boats offering various packages.



THE MARINA



MARINA DINNER
CRUISE BOAT
As for the cruises, I really wanted to take one, but they are not designed for a lone couple who are not interested in a dinner cruise. There is a wide variety of cruises of 1 to several hours, which includes either breakfast, a lunch barbeque or a dinner cruise. We prefer to pick our own restaurants for our meals. The ideal way to cruise is to come with a group or at least 8 or 10 people, and then you can book the tour of your choice on the boat of your choice. There are many companies to choose from. One of the leading companies I found is called Xclusive Yachts.

A GOOD 6 MINUTE VIDEO OF THE DUBAI MARINA







ALISA AND SHUBAN
TOURS WITH RAYNA: In order to utilize our time optimally, we decided to book 2 guided tours, one in Dubai, and one in Abu Dhabi. I got offers from several companies and settled on Rayna tours. Rayna tours, as are all of the tour companies I spoke to are run by Indian expats. In fact, the person I dealt with at Rayna sat in an office in India. His advice wasn't too good, but the tours were fine. The vehicles were fine, and the drivers and guide were great. We enjoyed both tours. The tour in Dubai included both a driver and guide, while the tour to Abu Dhabi had a driver, who was also the guide, and he was excellent. And, the car was brand new! To the left is a picture of Alisa, with our Dubai guide, Shuban. Below are the highlights of the Dubai tour.





AL FAHIDI ALLEYWAY




DATES AND COFFEE
IN AL FAHIDI
AL FAHIDI HISTORICAL NEIGHBORHOOD: Al Fahidi is a restored historical neighborhood depicting the life in Dubai before its modern wealth and development.  Admission is a modest 3 Dirham, and there are several  interesting attractions to visit. One of them is the Dubai Museum, which has been closed (unfortunately) for the last 2 years due to corona. We walked through the narrow winding alleyways surrounded by ochre-coloured buildings made of palm wood, coral, mud or gypsum. There are even wind towers on top of the houses, the era's desert air conditioning systems. We had coffee and dates at The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding. Picture to the left.




AL FAHIDI


DEIRA GOLD MARKET
DEIRA: Deira is the oldest commercial district in Dubai. It includes the very popular Grand Souk Deira, known in Arabic as "Al Souk Al-Kabeer" - a labyrinth of covered alleyways with stalls selling all kinds of things. There is a spice market, houseware market, and perhaps the most famous, the gold market. They sell both saffron and gold here by the kilo. To the right is a spice display, and to the left Alisa and I are standing in front of an incredible display of gold garments. And, here is a nice, short video stroll through the market.


DEIRA SPICE MARKET

ABRA BOAT RIDE: An Abra is a traditional small ferry-like boat used to ferry people across the Dubai Creek in Dubai. They travel between the water station at Shindagha/Al Ghubaiba on the Bur Dubai side, and the water station at Al Sabkha on the Deira side. The ride takes about 5 minutes. The abras depart every few minutes. The fare is 1 dirham (27 US cents), which is paid directly to the ferry driver. You can also rent an agra for a longer "cruise" up the creek. The Dubai creek seperates Deira (the old city center), from Bur Dubai, the newer city center. Here is an excellent video describing the experience, and to the right a picture of a selection of Abras.



ABRA BOATS


MADINAT JUMEIRAH
During the tour, we stopped at various places for a look and a photo. These included the Frame, the Jumeirah Mosque, Jumeirah Beach, Burj Al Arab, Madinat Jumeirah (more below), the Atlantis Hotel on Palm Island, the Mall of the Emirates (the mall with the ski slope), and City Walk, an open street mall which is definitely an exception in Dubai.

MADINAT JUMEIRAH: This sprawling mall is sonewhat similar to Souk al Bahar, but it's much bigger, and has several luxury hotels attached, or very near it, the most significant of them being the 7 star "Burj al Arab". This is the only hotel I have heard of which offers a paid tour of the premises. A 90 minute sunset tour will set you back about $70 per person. The tour info includes the following line: Burj Al Arab is the original home of luxury - Dress to impress! Smart/casual attire.   Madinat Jumeirah also has several excellent restaurants, and we ate at 2 of them.


BURJ AL ARAB HOTEL FROM MADINAT JUMEIRAH



we never had
a problem finding a taxi.
There are several modes of transportation to get around in Dubai. There's plenty of traffic on the roads, and renting a car is an option, but be warned, the fines are stiff for traffic violations. For tourists, the 2 main options are the Metro and taxis. The Metro is new, clean, efficient and cheap. To ride on it, you need a "NOL" card, which comes in 3 varieties - red, silver and gold. It can be crowded during rush hour, especially between the Marina area and the business district. We used the Metro to get to the Expo both days we visited, as the last station of the red line is right at the Expo. It was convenient and comfortable. 
ALL ABOUT
NOL CARDS


dubai metro &
tram system


official dubai transport site
we never had
a problem finding a taxi.

ABOVE: LOTS OF DUBAI-TAXIS WAITING IN FRONT OF MADINAT JUMEIRAH
As for the taxis, they are also pretty cheap, as long as you select the right taxi. There are several companies, the biggest of which is "Dubai Taxi". Their taxis are clean, in good condition, and always use the meter. They are always painted cream and red. Most of the drivers are Pakistanis, although we rode once with a woman driver from Senegal! Do not get into a black taxi. We did once, and found that the price was twice the price of Dubai Taxis. There are also 2 private driver services. Uber exists and there is a local service called Careem. We did not use them so I can not report anything about them. There is also a "Hop-on hop-off" tourist bus service, but again, we didn't use it, so I can't report on it. 










ENTRANCE TO
EXPO DUBAI 2021
Together, for Alisa and me, this was our second Expo, our first being in Milan in 2015. I personally was at a third - (when it was called the World's Fair) in New York City in 1964. The Dubai Expo was originally scheduled for 2021, but like so many events, was delayed for a year by corona. Dubai invested over 7 billion dollars as part of its program to turn the country into a world cultural and tourism center.




AT THE EXPO:
ALISA CAN MAKE FRiENDS ANYWHERE
In comparison to the Milan Expo, this Expo is bigger, better designed, and better organized. The Expo site has a well defined center (The El Wasl Plaza), where events take place all day and into the night. The El Wasl plaza features entertainment during the day and evenings. I took 2 short videos (20 seconds each) of the the El Wasl sound & light show. Here is the one at dusk, and here is the second one taken later when it was nice and dark.
The site is immense, and there are several options for riding from one place to another. There are visitor centers with a variety of available services scattered throughout the site. At each visitor center is a first aid station, and they were very efficient bandaging my knee after I scraped it at one of the pavillions.



EL WASL PLAZA
EXPO CENTER

AT THE EXPO MOBILITY PAVILLION
Unfortunately, we were not overwhelmed by any of the national pavillions. Most were impressive technologically, but the messages they were espousing were, in most cases not too clear. There are 3 themes of this Expo - sustainability, mobility, and opportunity, and most of the national pavillions are supposed to reflect one of these themes. It wasn't too clear to us. The most memorable pavillions for us were the non-national pavillions, namely the mobility pavillion and the sustainability pavillions.


THE STRIKING RUSSIAN
PAVILLION



STREET ENTERTAINMENT AT EXPO
I enjoyed the South Korean pavillion, despite injuring my knee there. They did some interesting things, including what they called "Vertical Cinema". Picture to the right. Again, the technology was fantastic, but the connection to the theme (in this case - mobility), is not all that clear.
This Expo will run until the end of March, 2022. By the time you read this page, it will probably be long over. Maybe we'll be lucky enough to visit the next one, in Osaka Japan in 2025.


VERTICAL CINEMA AT THESOUTH KOREAN PAVILLION








TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN ABU DHABI
(YOUTUBE VIDEO)

As noted above, we took a day trip to Abu Dhabi with Rayna tours. We had a driver guide named Ali. He comes from Pakistan and his English was excellent. He is educated and intelligent with a college degree, and before he became a taxi driver (and guide), he was a web site designer. He was a very good driver and excellent guide. He even had an "abaya" for Alisa in the car so that she could visit the Sheikh Zayed Mosque.


ABU DHABI is the capital of the UAE. It is the biggest of the Emirates and also the richest due to its significant oil and gas reserves. It is different from Dubai in several aspects. There are far fewer tourist attractions, but far more trees and green areas. Its skyline is much more modest than Dubai's, and it seems far less addicted to tourists. One thing it does have for the tourists is several theme parks. The most famous and popular of these is probably "Ferrari World". Ferrari World has become a stop on many tours, even if it's just to take pictures of it from the outside. It's quite an iconic shape. Here's a picture to the right, which obviously is not one that I took.
We did not visit any theme parks during our visit to Dubai or Abu Dhabi.
Below is what we did visit in Abu Dhabi.




FERRARI WORLD THEME PARK

THE DATE MARKET: The traditional date market was on the program, so we visited. I don't even like dates, and our expectations were low. However, we enjoyed the visit and even bought some dates, and some traditional middle eastern sweets (baklava and similar things) which were mostly imported from neighboring countries. The dates (from Saudi Arabia) were delicious.






ETIHAD TOWERS
IN ABU DHABI
EMIRATES PALACE HOTEL: It's an iconic hotel located on the beachfront of Abu Dhabi. It's big and beautiful. We took a picture and moved on.

EMIRATES PALACE HOTEL
IN ABU DHABI
THE PRESIDENTIAL PALACE: It's called Qasr Al Watan, and is open for visitors (for a modest fee of course). An adult ticket costs 60 Dirham. To the left is a picture of the iconic Etihad Towers, one of the symbols of Abu Dhabi. The Emirates Hotel, the Presidential Palace and the Etihad Towers are all pretty close together.

THE CORNICHE: The Corniche is the 8 KM long beachfront of Abu Dhabi. It includes the usual beachfront things like walking, biking, children's playgrounds, sandy beaches, and of course restaurants.


HERITAGE VILLAGE: Heritage Village is a recreated traditional village, oasis, and market located right on the water's edge. This was not on our bucket list, but the driver suggested we visit as we had a few minutes to spare. It's a family friendly place, good for a short visit. We came, we saw, we took a picture or 2, and went on our way.

HERITAGE VILLAGE
IN ABU DHABI


THE LOUVRE

THE LOUVRE: The Abu Dhabi Louvre is an art museum located on Saadiyat Island. It runs under an agreement between the UAE and France, signed in 2007, that allows it to use the Louvre's name until 2037, and has been described by the Louvre as "France’s largest cultural project abroad". The museum's stated aim is to bridge the gap between Eastern and Western art. I am not sure if the exhibition we saw is the permanent one, but its theme was the development of civilization. It's a beautiful building worth a visit. If you buy tickets in advance, they will be for a particular time slot. We did buy in advance on the internet, but there was no problem coming at a different time, as the museum was not too busy.



AT THE LOUVRE



SHEIK ZAHED GRAND MOSQUE
SHEIK ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE: This mosque was by far the highlight of our visit to Abu Dhabi. It is huge, impressive, and beautiful. It is one of the world's largest mosques, and can contain up to 55,000 worshippers. It is open for free visits by people of any faith, according to the times and conditions described on its own web site. Clothing restrictions apply, and women must wear what's called an "abaya" ( a full length cloak), and a head scarf both of which the mosque will supply if you don't have your own. There are also guided tours in English at certain hours. One of the recommendations for visiting here is to wear sunglasses, as the combination of sun and white marble are truly blinding.



A TOUR GROUP AT THE SHEIK ZAHED GRAND MOSQUE


SHEIK ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE

ALISA WITH OUR GUIDE ALI
AT THE SHEIK ZAYED MOSQUE

SHEIK ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE


The most amazing thing about the Sheik Zayed Mosque is that it has a shopping center inside the visitor's complex. There are quite a few stores even including a supermarket. In the picture above of Alisa and Ali you can see 2 of the stores - a Costa coffee shop and a Mothercare store. We were quite surprised.








DAMPA SEAFOOD
On every trip, there is one unforgettable restaurant, sometimes for all the wrong reasons. Dampa was the one on this trip. There are a couple of branches in Dubai, and we ate at the one in the Expo. At the Expo, there are several buildings called "Eat Expo", where 3 or 4 restaurants are situated. On our first visit to the Expo, we ate at one of these, and sat down at the most accessible of the restaurants. It was Dampa.



CAJUN SHELLFISH BEFORE EATING
As soon as we sat down, we knew it would be an experience. There was a box of sanitary disposable gloves on every table, and it was clear from the menu, that we were supposed to eat with the gloves on. We thought it was becasue of corona, but it wasn't. The food was mostly sauce covered shellfish (in the shell) and the only reasonable way to eat it was by hand, so we put on our gloves and dug in.
We ordered the cajun shrimp, and the cajun mussels. We lived in Louisiana for a while and we know what "cajun" means. The shrimp and mussels were covered with a red spicy sauce, which was tasty, but hardly cajun. They came with rice, which was dumped in a pile on the paper table covering.  After eating, our table (and every other table in the restaurant) was covered with heaps of soiled napkins and sauce covered red shells. It was quite an experience.


CAJUN SHELLFISH AFTER EATING


KALE SALAD AT BARON
BARON
This is the other restaurant we ate at in the Expo. It's another restaurant with branches in Dubai. It had a weird menu, and the kale salad Alisa ate, was, in her words, "the weirdest salad she's ever eaten". It had kale, pomegranate, puffed rice, mint, pickled raisins, and a few other items. I had gnudi, which was okay, but a little chewy.


GNUDI AT BARON

SEAFOOD PROVENCAL AT SAMMACH
SAMMACH
Samach was a surprising restaurant in Souk al Bahar, where we ate on the shores of Lake Burj, with a front row seat to watch the fountains. We sat down to eat and watch the fountains, with zero expectations, and were pleasantly surprised. The food was great! We had a delicious fish soup, a cabbage salad, and seafood provencale.

FRESH FISH DISPLAY AT SAMMACH

THE  FOUNTAINS AT BICE MARE

ROAST CHICKEN

BICE MARE
Bice Mare is an Italian restaurant, also located in the Souk al Bahar, and also with a nice view of the Burj fountains. We were seated on the terrace for the view of the fountains, but moved inside to get away from the noise of the fountains. We had already seen the show at least a half dozen times, and it gets stale fast. We really enjoyed this restaurant. The food was great and the service was excellent. We had fried calamari, roast chicken with veggies, and seabream. They also had a nice selection of grappa.




BREADS AND SPREADS AT BICE MARE


THE VIEW
AT FILIA
FI'LIA
Fi'lia is an elegant Italian restaurant on the 70th floor of the luxury SLS hotel in the Business Bay area of Dubai. The restaurant is beautiful, with great service, and an incredible view. The food was good but not overwhelming, but the pizza must have been really good because that's pretty much what every other table but ours ordered. We had the seabass carpaccio, and seabream with asparagus.


SEABREAM
 AT FILIA



PUBLIQUE
PUBLIQUE
This restaurant is located in the Madinat Jumeirah and we had lunch here on the day of our guided tour of Dubai. It seemed to us to have a schizophrenic atmosphere. It had different menus, and it was advertised as a French bistro, but inside it was adorned with decorations for a Swiss chalet. It was empty while we were there, so we had personalized service and the food was quite good. We had a nice salad, and a beautifully roasted octopus.


OUR LUNCH AT PUBLIQUE


THE VIEW
AT THE SCENE
THE SCENE
The Scene is one of the 7 restaurants in the building called Pier 7 at the Dubai marina. It's advertised as a British gastropub, which we wouldn't normally go for, but we liked what we saw on the menu, there was a lovely view of the marina, and we had an enjoyable lunch here. The view was nice, the beer was cold, and the salad was fresh! Can't ask for anything more than that!


GREAT CEASER SALAD AT THE SCENE



ONION SOUP AT BISTRO DES ARTS
BISTRO DES ARTS
On the web page it says: "A slice of Paris in Dubai". We agree. We liked this restaurant enough that we went back for a second dinner. It's open all day, every day, and the food was delightful. The service was simple and friendly, and the food was really French. As I said, we had 2 dinners there, so we were able to sample almost half the menu. We had foie gras, tartare tuna, real French onion soup, sauteed shrimp, turbot, duck breast, and even dessert - a Tarte Tatin with pear rather than apple.



TARTE TATIN AT BISTRO DES ARTS

FOIe GRAS
AT BISTRO DES ARTES

ENJOYING DINNER
AT BISTRO DES ARTS

TUNA TARTARE
AT BISTRO DES ARTS



DO IT YOURSELF SALAD AT AL ASALAH
AL ASALAH
We had lunch at this restaurant during our tour of Abu Dhabi. It was actually the only Arab restaurant we ate at during the entire trip. We had soup, which came with a do it yourself salad, and then a red snapper. The red snapper was smothered in paprika and looked more like a pizza than any fish we've ever seen.

STRANGE RED FISH AT AL ASALAH

TASHAS
Tashas was a light fare restaurant in the Marina Mall. We had a pleasant and light lunch here. We had a smoked salmon salad and a reuben sandwich. Nothing special, but good for a light lunch. There are 5 branches in various Dubai malls.



LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN
LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN
Le Pain is a French style bistro/bakery/patisserie with 5 branches in Dubai. We had a late night snack at the branch in the Marina Mall. They serve breakfast, baked goods, salads, quiches, soups and other light dishes. We had a pleasant meal here.


TARTINE AT LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN

FRESH FISH AND OPEN KITCHEN AT ROCKFISH
ROCKFISH
Rockfish was by far the most complete restaurant we ate at. In short it had everything: elegant setting, beautiful restaurant, impeccable service, great food, great view (of the nearby Burj al Arab hotel), and even live music. Rockfish is located in the Jumeirah Al Naseem Hotel, which is part of the Madinat Jumeirah complex.

3 DELICIOUS APPETIZERS AT ROCKFISH


SEABASS AT ROCKFISH
The restaurant is on the grounds of the hotel, but far enough from the lobby, that a "guide" from the hotel staff is required so that you don't get lost on the way. On the way back, we were driven on an electric buggy back to the lobby. We had a wonderful meal including several appetizers (which were good sized), and a main course for me of sea bass.
LIVE ROCKFISH ENTERTAINMENT







We are pleased that we visited Dubai and Abu Dhabi. However, I don't think we will ever visit again. It's not Italy or France, where we have been many times. We were lucky regarding corona, as we got there and back just before the omicron variant hit the entire world. Many people have asked us about drinking and dressing in Dubai. There are hotels and restaurants which are alcohol free, but most hotels and most restaurants serve alcohol freely, and except for our visit to the mosque in Abu Dhabi, we saw no dressing restrictions. We have read that both drinking and overt displays of affection in public are frowned upon, and may be illegal.


For families intesting in visiting, there are quite a few family oriented theme parks. There's a Legoland, a Bollywood park, Motiongate (a Hollywood themed park), and several water parks. That's not a comprehensive list. There are also several desert safaris which you can choose from, if you are interested in riding dune buggies in the desert, and having refreshments in a Beduin tent.



DESERT SAFARI

DUBAI'S UNDERGROUND DINING SCENE
For foodies, there are some great restaurants, but I wouldn't come here expecting a high end culinary experience. The best restaurants are ones that have been opened by (at least according to the publicity blurbs) world famous Michelin star chefs. Some of these are truly high-end, but there aren't that many.
24 ESSENTIAL DUBAI RESTAURANTS
(BY EATER)
DUBAI'S BEST FINE DINING SPOTS


I was looking forward to visiting one of the most extravagently promoted  attractions in Dubai, but unfortunately, this was not to be. I am talking about the "Museum of the Future". The building itself has been hailed as one of the most revolutionary and beautiful buildings in the world, but the museum itself is more than 2 years behind schedule, and there is still no opening date. The building, even if it hasn't opened to the public, has become an iconic symbol of Dubai. Picture below.

GOOD SITE ABOUT THE MUSEUM DESIGN

THE BUILDING DESIGNED BY AN ALGORITHm











THE OFFICIAL UAE GOVERNMENT PORTAL


SOME UNUSUAL FACTS ABOUT DUBAI


DIGITAL DUBAI


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC DUBAI TRAVEL GUIDE


A GUIDE TO DRINKING ALCOHOL IN DUBAI


A GUIDE TO WHICH AREA TO STAY IN DUBAI


VISIT DUBAI


20 TOP THINGS TO DO IN DUBAI


DUBAI TRAVEL PLANNER


UAE HAPPINESS PROGRAM






This is a page from our site "Travels with Steve & Alisa".  It describes one of the many trips we have made together. We've built these pages not just to describe our trips, but to help other travelers if we can.  Please use the information we've provided freely, and let us know if you have any questions we might be able to answer about your own planned trip, or just let us know if we have helped you. Or perhaps you have some information we could add to the site. Visit our home page using the link to the right.
            

                               Enjoy your next trip!!                                                                ~Steve & Alisa~


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FIRST UPLOAD: 26/JAN/2022                                 LATEST UPDATE: 15/FEB/2022