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A WEEK IN SICILY'S SECOND CITY - MAY, 2025 |
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MOUNT ETNA, EUROPES MOST ACTIVE VOLCANO, AS SEEN FROM OUR HOTEL's ROOF-TOP RESTAURANT |
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BELOW - A MAP OF SICILY |
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THE HISTORY OF SICILY ALL ABOUT SICILY 20 FUN FACTS ABOUT SICILY |
Sicily is the
largest and most populated island in the Mediterranean Sea, and has a
long and colorful history. Sicily is named after the Sicels, who
inhabited the eastern part of the island during the Iron Age,
and has been occupied by many different conquerors. It has some of the
best preserved Greek temples outside of Greece, and has many many
archeological sites which can be visited. As can be seen on the above
map, Sicily is located directly across from the tip of the Italian
"boot". Since 1860, the island has been part of Italy, and since 1946, has a special status as an autonomous administrative division within Italy. |
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We visited Sicily for the first time in 2003, when we did a road trip all around the island. You can read about that trip here.
This time, we decided to concentrate the entire trip in Catania,
Italy's second largest city, after Palermo. Catania is best known for
existing in the shadow of Mount Etna, Europe's most active volcano. The
city has has weathered numerous volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, as
well as political upheavals throughout its history. Mount Etna has not
only shaped the city's physical landscape but also its cultural and
artistic development. Catania is even known as the "black city" because of
the widespread use of black basalt, a volcanic stone, in its buildings. |
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Our original plan
was to stay in Catania for 7 nights. Unfortunately a medical situation
forced us to cut that to 5 nights. We still did most of what we wanted
to to, and enjoyed our stay, dispite the inconvenience. We stayed at the Catania Palace Hotel, located right on the main shopping street of the city. It’s a four star hotel, with 5 star service, a great breakfast, and a rooftop restaurant with a nice view of the city and Mt Etna. The location is absolutely the best - right near everything a visitor might want to see or do. |
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![]() CANNOLI! SICILY'S MOST FAMOUS DESSERT! |
On our first full day, we took a private guided walk around the city. We booked the tour with a company called LOKAFY,
which is a booking service for local guides in many cities around the
world. The concept is simple, and clever. The guide is not a
professional guide, but a local person who enjoys showing their city to
foreign tourists. The price is lower than the price you would expect to
pay to a licenced guide, but our experience was very positive.
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Our local guide was Claudia, and we enjoyed our 3 hour tour with her
very much. She knows all about the city, and her English is excellent.
Alisa was walking very slowly due to a pinched nerve, and Claudia was
very helpful in finding the best flat routes to accommodate her. Claudia took us through the center of town, and our walk included the Roman Amphitheatre, the Cathedral, the fish market, Via Crociferi (the street of churches), the Theatre Massimo Bellini, and several other places of interest. A few words about most of them them below. |
![]() ALISA & CLAUDIA AT THE FISH MARKET |
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![]() THE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE |
The Roman Amphitheatre
of Catania is very well preserved. It was built in the 1st century, and
after being enlarged in the 2nd century, it was one of the largest
amphitheatres in the Roman world. It is located right in the center of
town. It’s hard to miss if you do any strolling about town. This cathedral and its piazza is the social center of Catania, and well worth a visit. It’s not the most beautiful cathedral I've ever seen, but it does have some interesting things to see. Don’t miss Bellini’s tomb, or the mummified remains of Cardinal Benedetto who also served as the archbishop of Catania. And, there’s no entry fee. |
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![]() THE FOUNTAIN WITH DIVER |
The Piazza del Duomo
the cathedral square) is a large bustling square full of life and full
of prople. It also links the cathedral with the very popular fish
market. At one corner is the cathedral (formally called the Basilica
Cattedrale di Sant' Agata), and at the opposite corner is a statue and
fountain which leads directly into the fish market. It’s not exactly
the Trevi Fountain of Rome, but it is a major landmark in Catania. It's
called Fontana dell'Amenano. It’s a lovely statue, with a waterfall and
a small pool at its feet. It was created by Italian sculptor Tito
Angelini in 1867, and is a tribute to the River Amenano, which once ran
overground, and on whose banks the Greeks founded the city which became
Catania. When we were there, we found a wet young fellow in the pool apparently
looking for something someone had dropped (probably a cell phone on a
selfie stick). Picture to the left. |
![]() US AT THE FONTANA DELL' AMENANO |
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The Catania fish market
is probably the most visited tourist attraction in Catania. It’s an
amazing place with all the vendors shouting in the local dialect. It’s
also more than just a fish market. There’s lots of produce, as well as
several good restaurants. Don't misunderstand me that this is a market
for tourists. It is not. It is a real life daily market where the
people of Catania go to shop. If you like markets, don’t miss it! |
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Via Etnea
is the main high end shopping street of Catania. It very neatly bisects
the center of town from north to south. It connects the cathedral
square at the south end with Bellini Park at the northern end. It is
filled with high and low end stores, restaurant, bars, and many
historical buildings. As I mentioned above, our hotel was located right
on this street, which was very convenient. |
![]() THE CATHEDRAL OF ST AGATHA |
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![]() VIA FILOMENA |
Via
Santa Filomena is a street filled with restaurants and bars, although
the sign at the entrance says “Filomena district”. It’s a really
lively place for finding a meal or an evening’s entertainment. It was
right around the corner from our hotel, but we didn't eat here even
once. |
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![]() TEATRO MASSIMO BELLINI |
Bellini
Park, which is really known as Bellini's garden, is a lovely little park in the center of Catania. It’s mostly
famous for its wonderful view of Mt Etna. When I was there, it was
cloudy, and no view of Etna, however, it’s a very popular place for
strollers and sunbathers. The park is named after Vicenzo Bellini,
an Italian composer born in Catania. There are quite a few places in
Catania named after Bellini, as he is an honored native son. One of the most significant is the Teatro Massimo Bellini, the main opera house of Catania. |
![]() BELLINI PARK |
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One of us (me) went to a concert in honor of Bellini at a lovely church right near the cathedral. The church is called Della Badia di Sant'Agata Church
and is located literally across the street from the more famous Cathedral.
They have a variety of concerts here, once or twice a week and mainly
for tourists. I went to the “Bellini and Vivaldi's Four Seasons”
concert. This baroque church is lovely, and the musicians were very good, and I thoroughly enjoyed the concert.
Saint Agatha is a popular name for churches in Catania, as she is the patron saint of Catania. The Festival of Saint Agatha is held in Catania twice a year and is one of the largest Catholic religious festivals in the world. |
![]() CHURCH CONCERT |
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![]() CORRI CATANIA |
I also kind of, almost, sort of took part in Corri Catania,
a 5K running event which was held right on the weekend that we were
there. There
were some runners, but most of the participants were just out walking
with their families, children, strollers, and everybody had on their
"Corri Catania" t-shirt. The entire weekend was a city wide festival
with street entertainment, various activities, and a central stage near
the cathedral featuring local children's groups dancing or singing. Here's the main page about the festival (in Italian only). |
![]() CORRI CATANIA |
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We went to
several good restaurants during our stay. Sicily is known for its fish
and seafood, and that's what we concentrated on. In each restaurant,
Alisa ordered the fish and seafood soup, which generally meant a
mountain of seafood, a few pieces of fish, and a bit of delicious
liquid underneath. I had to help her finish it each time. Below is a
summary. |
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![]() FISH SOUP AT BE QUIET |
BE QUIET This restaurant, with the
strange English language name was probably our favorite in Catania. It
was very close to our hotel, and we had our first restaurant meal here in
Catania. The place was almost empty, so we had the restaurant to
ourselves. It has quite a large menu. The food was great, and our
waitress was entertaining, and lively, and we had a lot of fun here.
We had fish soup, oysters, and a very original dish of calamari au gratin. |
![]() CALAMARI AU GRATIN |
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![]() FISH SOUP AT ANTICA |
ANTICA MARINA Antica Marina is a fish and seafood restaurant located right on the edge of the famous fish market of Catania, so the seafood was fresher than fresh. Alisa had her huge fish soup, and I had a lovely dish of marinated seafood. The service was a bit “hurried” but that’s no surprise for a restaurant in a fish market. The place was full, and the meal an experience. |
![]() MARINATED SEAFOOD |
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![]() ANOTHER FISH SOUP! |
DUE PISTACCHI This seemed like a simple local
restaurant when we entered, but it was much more. The food was
exceptional. When Alisa asked why there was no fish soup on the menu,
the chef said “No problem! I will make you fish soup"! And
that he did – a huge serving of fish and seafood with a bit of soup. I
had the pistachio encrusted tuna steak, which was also excellent.
The service was personal and friendly, and the prices were reasonable. |
![]() PISTACHIO ENCRUSTED TUNA |
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CORIA This is a 1 Michelin star
restaurant, with exceptional service and wonderful food. I dined alone
because Alisa was suffering from her pinched nerve. This is the first
time I have ever eaten alone in a Michelin star restaurant, so I was
very curious as to how they would treat me. Happily, they treated me
just fine and I had a great meal!
I had the “Origini” tasting menu, which is the middle level tasting menu between a shorter and a longer one. It had 7 listed courses, but of course, also had a few more little unlisted items which I couldn’t keep track of. I also took the wine pairing, and all the wines were excellent. The dessert wine was so good, that I searched it out at a wine store and brought a bottle home. Everything was exceptional. |
![]() HERE I AM AT CORIA, ALL ALONE AT A TABLE FOR 6! |
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![]() AT PIZZA KATANE |
PIZZA KATANE We rarely eat pizza in a
restaurant, but because Alisa was stuck in bed at the hotel, I went out
and brought some back to the hotel. Claudia, our guide recommended it
and it turned out to be the best pizza I have ever had in Italy. The
place is simple, the people friendly, and the pizza base and crust
were absolutely fantastic. I walked here from our hotel in Catania, and
brought the pizza back to our hotel, twice!
"Katane" was the name given to the city by the Greeks in the 3rd century. |
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![]() PASTA ALLA NORMA |
ETNEA ROOFTOP RESTAURANT This is the Palace Catania
hotel restaurant. It was much better than I expected. The views are
lovely, and the food was both elegant and tasty.The portions were quite small, but delicious. Here is where I had my only "Pasta alla Norma",
which is the most famous pasta dish in Sicily. The restaurant's version
was not the typical presentation, but it worked well, and I enjoyed it. Alisa fell in love with the minature zucchini and mushroom quiche pictured to the right.
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![]() QUISHE; TINY, BUT TASTY! |
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There are lots of
things to do in or near Catania other than the things described above.
Below is a list of some popular attractions. Some we just didn't want
to do, some we wanted to do but didn't have enough time, some we did in
the past, and some, which we had to cancel because of shortening our
trip by 2 days. |
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CATANIA UNDERGROUND There are several sites
called Catania Underground, as the city has has been rebuilt
several times, and there are a myriad of undergound caves, and
lava flows. On tripadvisor, these sites have mixed reviews.
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VISIT THE BENEDICTINE MONASTERY OF SAN NICOLO The Benedictine Monastery is today a part of the University of Catania, but it is open for regularly scheduled tours. The tours last an hour and a half. It was built in the 16th and 17th centuries, and is classified as a Unesco World Heritage site. |
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VISIT THE PALAZZO BISCARI This is a beautiful villa open for regularly scheduled tours. And, if you are short on time, the tour is a short one - only 30 minutes. |
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VISIT MOUNT ETNA Obviously one of the
main attractions near Catania is Mount Etna. There are many tours
available, and a variety of forms of transportations, from trekking to jeeps to
helicopters. You can also drive up by yourself, but only to a certain
point, and then you need a licenced guide. We visited Etna on our last
visit.
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a selection of etna tours by go-etna etna experience tours |
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the ten best wineries to visit on etna the etna WINE ROUTE a tasting report of etna wines |
VISIT A WINERY ON THE SLOPES OF MOUNT ETNA The wines grown on the slopes
of Mount Etna are very unique, as the volcanic soil imbues them with
unique characteristics. There are many wineries on the slopes offering
tours, wine tastings, and some even offer offer Sicilian meals to go
with the wines. You can book a visit privately, or with a tour company,
or even order a tour which includes visiting Etna and a winery. In
addition, there's also a winery you can visit inside Catania. It's
called the Etna Urban Winery.
We booked a tour, tasting and lunch at Benante winery, which we unfortunately had to cancel. |
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DRIVE/SAIL THE "CYCLOPS RIVIERA" AND VISIT THE THREE ACI VILLAGES The coastal area directly north
of Catania is known as the "Cyclops Riviera". It's a beautiful coastal
road which leads to 3 colorful fishing villages known as the
three Aci villages. They are Aci Castello, Aci Trezza
and Acireale. You can drive up the Cyclops Riviera, or sail along the
coast parallel to it. In any case, it's a lovely ride and the villages are well worth the
visit, in particular, Aci Trezza. Aci Trezza is most famous for its
"skyline", for wherever you are in Aci Trezza, looking towards the sea, you will
see the majestic stacks of basalt collumns, known collectively as the
Faraglioni.
We booked a tour with a company called Goinsicily, which included a drive on the Cyclops Riviera, a walking tour in Aci Trezzi, and a boat ride to a couple of islands. Unfortunately, we had to cancel this tour. |
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DAY TRIPS I've mentioned above several popular day trips from Catania, but there are many more. Other possible visits include Syracusa, a historic city an hour south of Catania, Taormina, probably Sicily's most famous glamorous hill-top town, Agrigento, which has the best preserved Greek temples in the Mediteranean outside of Greece, or how about the interesting town of Lentini, and its nearby lake of the same name, which happens to be the biggest lake on the island of Sicily. |
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RADIO TAXI CATANIA a great taxi service you can order via whatsapp |
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VISIT SICILY |
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GO ETNA the most comprehensive catania area tour company I found |
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ITALY MAGAZINE ON SICILY |
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FANTASTIC DAY TRIPS FROM CATANIA a personal blog called "she knows islands" |
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13 WONDERFUL THINGS TO DO IN CATANIA |
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TYPICAL SICILY plan your trip to Sicily | |||||
WAYLESS TRAVELERS Catania itineraries |
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THE FOOD OF SICILY |
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THE GUIDE TO SICILIAN CUISINE |
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